Kadeau moved to a this location as of last January. They have a atrium next to the main restaurant where your meal starts and could end with after dinner drinks if you choose. They have an off-site garden on the island of Bornholm where the original restaurant is located. Many of their herbs and vegetables are grown on the island from which they get weekly deliveries. The kitchen is open from the dining room and entry and it buzzes with activity. The various chefs bring out each course and do final preparations and explanations. All the staff were extremely friendly and helpful. Magnus Kofoed, one of the owners, kept a close eye on the dining room to make sure all went smoothly. He and his brother Rasmus (no relation to the Geranium chef) and Nicolai Nørregaard, who were all childhood friends (Magnus and Nicolai had their first job together at 11), are chef/owners.
This new location has given them the opportunity to design and set every detail of the place, which has a cozy and calm atmosphere. The room is filled with copper, wood and perfect lighting (which has an endless amount of adjustments). Lighting is key as is bright enough to be able to appreciate the beauty of the presentation but still maintain a warm and inviting atmosphere. There is one tasting menu for all who visit Kadeau and a growing wine list offered to accompany the food.
We started in the garden with a beverage of red currant and camomile. It was tangy and refreshing.
After moving to a table we had fresh peas and razor clams. The sweet and tender peas were from their garden and it was a totally simple and fresh dish that was lovely to eat.
Mahogany clams were served with cockles and pickled vegetables and flowers on a really crisp cracker. The vegetables were the star in this dish that had something in it that added a slight sweetness. Good one.
The oysters were grilled with hemp and then pickled. They were served in a kelp leaf with an emulsion on the side. The leaf was a bit chewy but the taste was good. The side sauce mixed nicely with the seafood.
The bread here is cooked in a fireplace and then coated with pork fat. It is like a thick, chewy pancake-like item that is served with ultra rich butter that makes a delicious partnership. This is a double Yum!
The salmon course is quite a production table-side. It is topped with fig and plum sauce and scooped into a bowl and then mixed with several other flavors that mixed very well with the salmon.
The langoustine was served in tomato reduction sauce alongside several tomato pieces. The tomato flavor was amazing and the langoustine was like a paste along the bottom of the bowl. It also included some hazelnuts and left a wonderful aftertaste. A winner!
The mackerel and potatoes were served with leaves and a creamy sauce. These wonderful flavors all blended really well together. The leaves were a bit hard to cut but worth working for.
Next was a squid ink tart filled with pickled pine, wild mushrooms and mussels. This was a really interesting and unique taste that was strangely compelling.
The king crab and cauliflower were served with a butter sauce. The shredded cauliflower had a texture and hint of coconut taste that was marvelous. The crab was so sweet I hated to mix it with the marvelous sauce and sides. You couldn’t go wrong with this dish.
The celeriac was dusted with wood ants and served with a olestra caviar sauce of white asparagus. The ants were a non thing and the celeriac was almost meaty. The sauce had a good taste of asparagus. A very good offering here.
The grilled vegetables were an intricate presentation that I hated to eat and mess up. Nice but the best part of it was the visual effect.
The roasted pork was from a pig raised on their farm. It was served with onions. A very tender and savory dish.
The porcini mushroom was served with a bowl of shaved lamb heart. it was delicious course and eaten with the hands.
The tart with rhubarb was creamy with a great crust. Amazing layer work here and great flavor.
The fermented raspberries were served with creme fraiche and topped with walnut schnapps. So good I had to have another glass of just the walnut schnapps.
The last desserts were served together. The apple tart had a really thick crust and tasty filling. Double yum! The mulberries were not as tart as I expected but instead a mild berry taste. ok. The beet with pear was nice, but the apple tart was the star in this trio. A fine end to a wonderful meal!
