Les Collonges was a medium sized place that offered 5 course menu or a la carte options at weekend lunch. We chose the 5 course menu. American music played in the background, where the small tables were surrounded by art on the walls, sound panels on the ceiling, some bench seating, wood floors, windows to the street and some outdoor tables. The place was bright but cozy with friendly, efficient service. Plating was appropriately sized and Chef Pierre-Étienne Leseute was in the house. Opening about 4 months ago I appreciated that they were willing to tell you which menu items were on the tasting to help in your decisions. The food was fabulous and the vibe fantastic as well as a good price point. In fact 68 euros for this tasting was amazing. I’d make a reservation now if I were you.
Set-up
Food
Tables all got some sliced dark crusty bread that was quite good.
We started with a consomé of celery, carrots, herbs and lemon oil from Corsica. The broth was nicely clear and filled with tiny cubes of al dente carrots and celery. Tons of herbs made this warm starter real comfort food.
Raw scallops, XO sauce, Brussels sprouts leaves and peanuts were combined for the first starter. The raw sliced scallops had not a bit of pastiness which told me they were very fresh. Topped with some crispy leaves and underneath peanuts and spices. Tons of textures to savor in this really tasty combination of flavors.
Layered slices of potatoes topped with apples were in a celery pistachio vinaigrette. A little sabayon and lightly smoked tarragon added extra flavor to the plate. The apples brought some sweetness that contrasted nicely with the tart vinaigrette. Add the crunch of pistachios and a creamy sabayon and you have an excellent combination. A real winner.
Vegetables pot-au-feu were with homemade udon noodles. Kale, turnip, and carrots were some of the vegetables in this perfect winter-day soup. The broth was the same as the amuse with so much depth. It was a pleasure to eat.
Lamb-stuffed cabbage, lamb stock, coco beans, chanterelle mushrooms made up the second main plate. The little white beans were cooked to perfection and surrounding the tasty lamb stuffed cabbage ball in a wonderfully herb scented broth. So much flavor in this wonderful plate.
Roasted pineapple, coconut-nutmeg foam, and Madeleine biscuit were one dessert. Some fresh pineapple was caramelized on the bottom with a thin crisped slice on the top. A bit of lime zest brought it all together with a little Madeleine cake on the bottom covered by the coconut foam. This one had great textures and lots of strong pineapple flavor without being overly sweet. Yum.
Jerusalem artichoke ice cream sundae also had smoked salty caramel and seaweed jam. Some buckwheat was in the caramel sauce that had crisped artichoke bits floating on it and stuck in the ice cream. The sweet sticky sauce was to die for. An excellent one here and yum x2.
