Site icon Dining With Frankie

Restaurant Alliance (update), Paris, 4/12/19

building
building (you can see chef through the window)

It’s been 2 years since we visited Restaurant Alliance, a small one star Michelin restaurant with Chef Toshitaka Omiya at the helm – someone who seriously knows how to cook.  If you have the opportunity to get there, do.  I give it solid thumbs way up.   The food is wonderful combinations of really flavorful ingredients that will leave you wanting more and then they’ll bring the next course that is just as good or better.  They offer 2 tasting menus, one a 7 course surprise menu selected by the chef or a Harmony Menu of set courses.  They do offer a smaller tasting menu at lunch but go at dinner if you can because you don’t want to miss any of the dishes this chef turns out.  Pacing is good, no lags and portion control great.  There are only around 7 tables in between the windows to the street and the large window looking into the kitchen.  Shades of gray and cream along with lower lighting provide a peaceful, cozy ambiance along with some cool circular overhead light fixtures.  Service is stellar, with welcoming and helpful staff that all spoke great English.  We were warmly greeted by  the chef and manager Shawn Joyeux, who is great at finding you a fun wine at your chosen price point.

menu
chef in the kitchen
light fixture
Manager Shawn Joyeux plays with Frankie

 

Some amuse bouche start the dinner, served rapidly so I’m pretty sure I didn’t get all the ingredients for each.  Goat cheese mousse and raw radish were on a crisp cheese crust.  The fresh tones of the dish were lovely as was the fun texture.  It was quite good.

Goat cheese mousse and raw radish
from the top

 

More raw radish was in tiny tart crust with shallots.  Another tasty bite.

radish with shallots
wine

 

A coronet was filled with foie gras and topped with shallot foam.  The ultra thin crust was a perfect contrast to the creamy interior.  Very good.

foie gras and shallot foam

 

A small taco was filled with beef fillet  tartar and caviar.  The bits of raw tenderloin melded with something creamy on top and both were enhanced by the tasty caviar topping.  The really crisp shell was a good contrast with the silky interior contents.  Winner with great flavors.

beef fillet  tartar and caviar
another view
Frankie and the candle

 

A sea scallop Croque-Monsieur was made with the scallop beards.  The buttery delicious toast went perfectly with the luscious scallop bits.  This was truly amazing.  I could have stopped her and just eaten a plateful of these.  Wow.

Sea scallop Croque-Monsieur
closer
from the side
inside

 

Green apple and radish slices were stuffed with crab curry.  The discs were squeezed into a tortellini like shape after being filled with the creamy crab stuffing.  It was mild but lovely.  Some focaccia came out with it that was seasoned with lemon and olive oil with a bit of salt on top.  Very nice.

Green apple and radish slices with crab curry
closer
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another view
inside
inside
focaccia
another view
Frankie found  art

 

A dense dark round loaf of bread came with a flavorful whipped olive oil butter.  The bread had a good crisp crust and the butter a good flavor.

bread and butter
another view
inside
butter
Frankie played on the table bone

 

Artichokes  flavored with coriander were on top of some Breton abalone.  The abalone had never been frozen and was cooked for hours and then its juices mixed with the artichokes.  The colors ended up being very similar as well as the size of the pieces.  They both went well together or stood alone just fine.  The abalone was amazingly tender and made you want to keep coming back for more bites.  The artichokes were nicely flavored and it was wonderful to have a great pile of the tasty morsels.

Artichokes, coriander and abalone
closer
turned
underneath
Frankie found flowers

 

Asparagus was with a frozen egg yolk that was cooked with truffle and then wrapped in the last of the season truffles.  On the other side, the asparagus was the first of the season, so it was unusual to be able to have them in the same meal let alone the same plate.  The truffle around the yolk set it like one that had been cooked in a sous vide machine.  It was a perfect combination with the richness of the yolk with the truffle and a dab of truffle mayo to set them both off nicely.  The totally fresh tasting asparagus went well with the mayo too.  It was enhanced with dressed with bits of the interior of another asparagus stalk.  A perfect combination and tremendous.

asparagus, egg yolk and truffle
closer
closer
inside
knife
wine

 

Blue lobster from the Chausey Islands on the Brittany Coast was plated with morels and white asparagus in a white wine sauce.  This was a ‘lick-the-plate-clean’ dish.  All the ingredients were excellent quality and I found myself wanted to savor each alone to enjoy the intensity of the taste and texture rather than mixing them.  But they mixed spectacularly.  This was about as perfect a dish as you could make.

lobster, white asparagus and morel
turned
closer
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underneath
Frankie found an interesting object

 

Some nice rare beef filet was cut along the fiber (not cross cut) to make it absolutely tender.  It was paired with mashed potatoes that were studded with bits of truffle.  The different way of cutting the meat not only made it incredibly tender but it really brought out the flavor too, as did the nice sear on the edge.  Truffles were terrific in the creamy rich mashed potatoes.  This was another totally excellent dish.

meat presentation
closer
beef with broth
closer
closer
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underneath mashed potatoes
Frankie and another knife

 

The chicken was next that we had seen raw with the lobster coral under the skin.  It looked green when raw and then turned a wonderful shade of burnt orange when cooked.  The coral was placed under the skin for a couple days to flavor the meat.  It was served with grilled broccoli and a piece of tempura lobster.  Both meats were really juicy and the chicken totally picked up the flavor of the lobster.  A genius concept.  Everything was perfectly cooked and full of flavor with the sauce being a crowning glory.  Broccoli added a bit of salt flavor to the plate and the tempura added a great crunch.  Another excellent plate.

presentation of bird before cooking
Frankie inspected the bird after it was cooked
chicken with lobster coral and brocolli
little closer
closer
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coral under skin and closer tempura
opened up
Frankie posed with more art

 

They offered an optional course of cheese featuring Comté but we passed because I wanted plenty of room for dessert.  First was a strawberries and bergamot mousse.  The strongly flavored strawberries were flavored with sugar and topped with a foam of bergamot and a thin clear disc of crisp sugar.  This dish made me think delicate – it was light yet nicely sweet but mostly importantly well flavored.

strawberries and bergamot mousse
closer
turned
chef visits guests

 

Panna Cotta was mixed with pecans, mango and a passion fruit sorbet.  The custard was a good base for the sweet yet tart sorbet.  The toasted nuts added depth of flavor and crunch that was also added by the thin crisp cookie on top.  Again, it satisfied my sweet tooth but felt light.

Panna Cotta, pecans, mango and passion fruit
other side
turned
taken a part
Frankie played in the glasses

 

Rhubarb and meringue were combined with white tea vinaigrette.  The sweet and tender rhubarb went well with the dressing.  Alongside was a tasty fruity cake that was perfect for absorbing all the nice juices of this dish.

presentation
closer
Rhubarb and meringue with tea sauce
closer
closer
turned
from the top
cake
A smiling Shawn Joyeux and Frankie

 

A dark chocolate of 70% was combined with truffle ice cream.  The bottom was a thick chocolate cookie topped with the ice cream and then with a sugary crisp layer of chocolate and truffle.  Everything blended really well in this one  and provided a good variety of tastes and textures.

chocolate with truffle ice cream
closer
opened
turned

 

Last treats were an orange tart with a really short buttery crust topped with an intense bit of orange butter.  Apple was mixed with cardamom to produce an apple-cinnamon jelly, that tasted like a bite of apple pie.  Toasted meringue was in the spirit of a toasted marshmallow but it was stuffed with white chocolate.  All were great but the ‘marshmallow’ was my favorite – totally yummy.  Let me end by saying again the food is beautifully presented but also really packed with flavor – make a plan to go.

treats
meringue with white chocolate
another view
Frankie posed with the marshmallows
inside
orange tart and apple jelly
turned
inside orange tart
Chef Toshitaka Omiya and Frankie
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