Germany

Heimat (update), Frankfurt, 3/17/25

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building – Berliner Str. 70, 60311 Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Heimat is a medium-sized place that we ate at in April 2014 and liked so much we tried to go back, but after several trips through Frankfurt, this was the first time we’ve been able to get a reservation.  It is a semi-circle shape with bench seating running along the outside wall opposite closely set bare wood tables and windows to the outside filling that exterior wall.  There are a half dozen seats at the bar where you stop for a glass or wait for your table to open, but reservations are made for a two-hour window and people cleared promptly.  There is patio seating depending on the weather.  Dimmed lighting, a wood ceiling with music in the background set the ambiance for this fabulous little gem of a restaurant.  Menus are small and there are tons of wines by the glass at reasonable prices.  Owner Oliver Donnecker was still there and was willing to let us share a number of the menu options and course it out with generous wine pairings, especially as the following reservation for our table was cancelled and so we could have more than the 2-hour window.  It was hands-down my favorite restaurant during our 2014 visit and it has not lost a beat.  This is a must go when you are in Frankfurt but get your reservation ahead of time. Continue reading →

Restaurant Schwarzwaldstube(update), Baiersbronn, 3/16/25

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restaurant building – Tonbachstraße 237, 72270 Baiersbronn, Germany

We were last at Restaurant Schwarzwaldstube in Sept 2018 (click to see that write-up), when we visited the Black Forest and stayed at Hotel Traube Tonbach.  After our visit a fire destroyed the restaurant building that is across the street from the hotel in Jan 2020.  The new facility is in the same space and reopened in April 2022.  Torsten Michel has been head chef since 2017 and they retain their 3 Michelin Star rating, which they’ve had since 1993 – the longest streak in Germany.  The dining room felt much more modern as I’m sure the kitchen is too.  The large single drape tables are widely spaced and a modern light fixture hangs from the ceiling, but most of the table light comes from the small spots above.  Large windows are on 3 of the walls and music is softly in the background.  A large floral arrangement is in the center and small matching ones are on each table.  They offer 2 tasting menus, a vegetarian tasting menu and a la carte.  Wine or alcohol-free pairings are available for each of the tastings.  Interestingly, they will do different tastings at the same table rather than the usual only one.  Service and the food are fantastic and the wine list large and reasonable.  Pacing was on the slow side but portioning spot on.  The Chef comes around to visit with guests following the savory service.   I recommend a trip to the Black Forest  where you can eat at 2 very fine restaurants, but I would also recommend staying here rather than Bareiss and letting the Traube Tonbach drive you back and forth.  Put this on your to-go list! Continue reading →

Restaurant Bareiss (update), Baiersbronn, 3/15/25

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entrance – Hermine-Bareiss-Weg 1, 72270 Baiersbronn, Germany

We first ate at Restaurant Bareiss in 2018 (click to see that here).  It is the 3-Michelin star restauant under Chef Claus-Peter Lumpp.  He has been here since March of 1992 and it was awarded the third star in 2007 up from the 2 it had held since 1985.  It’s in the Hotel Bareiss which is a massive complex of buildings.  They are closed Mon-Wed but offer lunch as well as dinner Thurs – Sun, which makes reservations for one of the 8 tables a bit easier.  We did the tasting menu at lunch this visit and stayed at their hotel, rather than using the complimentary transportation between it and the other 3 star in the Black Forest.  The dining room had been updated with a new ceiling fixture but there was still a fabulous flower arrangement in the center of the room.  One advantage of lunch is being able to see out the windows that circle the room, into the outside gardens.  The girls working in the room have an updated version of traditional dress while the men wear formal attire.  No music was in the room that held large well spaced double-clothed tables.  Service was as outstanding as the food.  At lunch they offer a shorter lunch menu, the dinner tasting menu(which we got) and a la carte options.  It’s a long meal but well worth the effort of getting there to enjoy it. Continue reading →

Restaurant JAN, Munich, 3/13/25

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entrance – Luisenstraße 27, 80333 München, Germany

Restaurant JAN, opening in 2022, was the creation of Chef Jan Hartwig.  This is Hartwig’s first own restaurant, previously having been a chef at the 3 Star Restaurant Atelier (where we ate in 2018)  as well as the author of a cookbook.  The well-lit dining room can seat up to 40 guests and there is a private dining room in addition.  The open kitchen is at one end of the main room with some of the tables set to the side where there is no view of the kitchen.  Windows to the street were shuttered and modern art is on the light walls.  Natural woods make up the doorways, ceiling and floor with the dark un-clothed wood tables varying in size.  Rock music was in the background and Chef Hartwig was in the house and came out to speak with his guests.   He has already received a Michelin 3 star rating at this new place – just 6 months after it opened.  His “7” (there are lots of extras) course tasting menu is only offered 4 days a week.  There are several supplemental dishes offered as well as wine pairings.  The attractive room is sparse but the food is lovely.  Get a reservation if you can. Continue reading →

Gourmet Restaurant Ophelia, Konstanz, Germany, 3/14/25

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Restaurant part of hotel – Seestraße 25, 78464 Konstanz, Germany

The Gourmet restaurant Ophelia is in the Hotel Riva on Lake Constance.  In 2010 Dirk Hoberg became head chef of the newly opened restaurant with a philosophy of “better always trumps good”, and with that he combines treasures from the local region with the finest international ingredients.  They have a two Michelin star rating.  The space is a 1909 villa next to the very modern hotel with music in the background, well-spaced cloth-covered tables, lowered lighting, bench seating on one wall, a beautiful old wood floor, art on the wall, windows to the gardens and a long service table running down the middle of the room.  You enter into a lounge area where some folks choose to have a drink  and their first snacks.  We proceeded directly to the table  in the rectangular room with the open kitchen on one end.  Four seats were at a counter over-looking the kitchen although I did not see a lot of interaction it did have a better view of the action. They offer one tasting menu with two optional additional courses and one upgrade on an existing course.  The pacing was a bit slow but service was friendly and helpful.   The food was very good even though it seemed to have a standard of added foams at the table.  We chose the upgrades and additions but ordered our own wine rather than the pairings.  I would put this one on your list to visit. Continue reading →

Essigbrätlein In Nürnberg, Nuremberg, 3/12/25

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exterior – Weinmarkt 3, 90403 Nürnberg, Germany

Essigbrätlein was a small restaurant in the historic part of Nuremberg.  They offered a tasting menu where vegetables are the main ingredients, showcasing local produce.  They have been awarded 2 Michelin stars and a Michelin Green Star (for sustainability).  Chef Andree Köthe opened the restaurant in 1989 and won his first star in 1999 and the second in 2007.  He also was named Chef of 2012 in Germany by Gault and Millau.  Chef Yves Ollech joined Köthe in 1997 and Sommelier Ivan Jakir joined in 1999.  Together this trio presents a fabulous option to the standard tasting menu full of luxury ingredients and instead features the finest produce of the area.  The small dining room had bench seating along the walls facing nice sized white clothed tables.  The walls were dark wood, wood beams were in the ceiling, the wood floor was covered with rugs, and no music was in the background.  The windowless room had some dividers between tables, some mirrors on the walls and a mural on the wall above the door to the kitchen.  Their tasting menu was available in 5, 6 or 7 courses with optional wine pairings.  We chose the 7-course tasting with a bottle of white and glass of red toward the end.  The matches were great with decent size pours on the by the glass.  Service was as outstanding as the food.  This hidden gem of a restaurant has been discovered by Michelin and now you need to put it on your list to discover. Continue reading →

Bratwursthäusle, Nuremberg, 3/12/25

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exterior – Rathauspl. 1, 90403 Nürnberg, Germany

Bratwursthäusle was in the heart of Nuremberg in the middle of a number of historic buildings.  A terrace surrounded a couple sides of the old stone building but it was too cold that day for most to be eating outside.   As you entered you immediately see the open beech wood fire grilling the Nuremberg Bratwursts. They make the sausages in their own butcher shop from a traditional recipe.  Sausages have been sold here since 1312 – it’s the oldest restaurant in Bavaria, Germany – which was what most people were eating.  They have menu alternatives but the sausage was what people come here for.  The good-sized place had old wood walls with a variety of wood tables set with chairs or benches.   Cookware pieces decorated the walls along with older drawings and photos.  No music was in the background and the lighting was pleasant, with minimal sun getting through the bullet glass windows.  Seating was communal style around the center grill area.  They had a good fire going but ventilation kept the smoke odor away.  A bar was on your immediate right as you entered with draft beer being a favorite accompaniment to the sausages.  Service was fast, efficient and friendly and it was a good starting place for a vacation in Germany. Continue reading →

Bidlabu Bistro, Frankfurt, 3/11/24

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exterior – Kleine Bockenheimer Str. 14, 60313 Frankfurt am Main, Germany

Bidlabu Bistro was in the middle of downtown hidden down a back alley.  It’s a fairly small place packed with small wooden tables.  When weather permits there is patio dining.  They offer only a tasting menu with meat or vegetarian and optional wine pairings.  There are 2 seatings and you are told when you make your reservation that you just have the table for 2 hours.  Bathrooms are downstairs and women are marked with cats and men with dogs – Frankie approved.  The kitchen is run by André Rickert and Patrick Löhl.  Service was friendly and the tasting did not lag.  Portion control was also good.  They have received one Michelin Star. Continue reading →

Restaurant Sonnora, Dreis, Germany, 3/10/24

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building – 1 Auf dem Eichelfeld, 54518 Dreis, Germany

Waldhotel Sonnora opened in 1978 under Chef Helmut Thieltges who achieved 3 Michelin stars for the restaurant.   Clemens Rambichler joined the kitchen in 2011 and worked for years with Thieltges as sous chef.   When Thieltges died in 2017 it was a natural progression for Magdalena and Clemens Rambichler to take over and now run the place with she managing the front of the house and he manning the kitchen.    They have retained their 3 Michelin star rating as well as renovated the hotel it is in, to be a delightful place to stay while enjoying a fabulous meal there.   Less than an hour’s drive to Luxembourg it was easily our favorite dining experience, including the breakfast that came with the room.  The classic French restaurant offers a 7-8 course tasting menu or a la carte service.  They offered wine pairings as well as one possible supplement.  We declined supplements and chose our own wine.  The dining room had well spaced large tables with windows overlooking the small town of Dreis.  Music was in the background, lots of flowers graced the various rooms, and art and mirrors decorated the walls.  Service was truly exceptional and pacing and portion control were first rate.  It was a fabulous experience and I hope that all will find a way to get there and try it.  You won’t be sorry. Continue reading →

Restaurant Vendôme in Schloss Bensberg, Bergisch Gladbach, Germany, 3/9/24

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hotel – Althoff Grandhotel Schloss Bensberg, Kadettenstraße, 51429 Bergisch Gladbach, Germany

Restaurant Vendôme is a 2 star Michelin restaurant under the direction of Joachim Wissler in the Althoff Grandhotel Schloss Bensberg since 2000.  This grand castle hotel is very close to the city of Cologne.  Chef Wissler received his first star one year after opening and the second one in 2002.  It had a 3 stars a year later but recently went back to a 2-star rating.  The hotel is huge and it actually took us a bit to locate how to get to the restaurant.  It turned out that the easiest way was to walk outside and use the entrance used by those not staying in the hotel. Still, it is a short pleasant walk depending on where your room is located.  The large dining room had some dividers between some of the tables, lowered lighting, music in the background, stone walls and floors, acoustic tile on the ceiling and the longest rolled-up napkin at your place.  They offered a 6 or 8 course tasting with a couple possible supplements, a vegetarian option and wine pairings.  We chose the 8-course tasting and added one supplement to share along with our own bottle of wine. Continue reading →

GästeHaus Klaus Erfort, Saarbrüken, Germany, 3/8/24

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exterior – Mainzer Str. 95, 66121 Saarbrücken, Germany

GästeHaus Klaus Erfort opened in 2003 and by 2008 it had achieved a 3 Michelin Star rating, but 2023 found it downgraded to 2 Stars.  Located in a large house, the elegant dining room had good-sized widely spaced double-white cloth-covered tables with heavily starched napkins, art on the walls, a lovely wood floor, dropped white acoustic ceiling and spot lighting on the tables.  They offered a tasting menu only of 4, 5 or 7 courses and wine pairings were available.  There were several rooms for seating some of which had larger tables and others set to accommodate larger parties.  Service began with a champagne cart and then the snacks started to arrive quickly.  No supplements were offered and we chose to have the “Complete” menu and order our own bottle of wine.  The pacing of the meal was variable with some fairly long pauses in the latter parts of the tasting but portion control was good.  It was a nice meal and the place was pretty but I’m not rushing back. Continue reading →

Victor’s Fine Dining by Christian Bau, Perl-Nennig, Germany, 3/7/24

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building – Victor’s Residenz-Hotel Schloss Berg, Schloßstraße 27-29, 66706 Perl, Germany

Victor’s Fine Dining has had Chef Christian Bau in charge of the kitchen since 1998, when it was called Victor’s Gourmet Restaurant Schloss Berg.  It was awarded a Michelin star that first year and 7 years later he became Germany’s youngest 3-Michelin star chef.  Bau studied French cuisine but after trips to Asia combined in some Japanese influences.  The restaurant is located in the Schloss Berg castle which is part of Victor’s Residenz-Hotel Schloss Berg.  The Renaissance castle was bombed in WWII but later rebuilt into a 5-star hotel with the restaurant on the first floor.  A more modern hotel is next door, just a short walk, and they have a lot more rooms available.   The small elegant dining room had 9 large round tables widely spaced and draped with fine white linens.  The ornate wood ceiling was opposite wide a floor of wide wood planks and stone.  A good-sized wine and liquor display cabinet is in the center of the room.  They serve a tasting menu only but you can opt to have no cheese course as well as the crab course, the evening we were there.  If you want more there were a number of supplemental courses you could add to the menu, some needing to be ordered by everyone and some individual.  We chose the “Full Experience” and declined additional courses as well as selected our own wines rather than pairings.  This was a wonderful dinner, but I think I would prefer to try his cooking without the Asian influence. Continue reading →

Schanz, Piesport, Germany, 3/6/24

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exterior- Bahnhofstraße 8A, 54498 Piesport, Germany

Schanz Restaurant received a 3 Michelin star rating in 2022.  Chef Thomas Schanz opened his restaurant next to the hotel owned by his parents in 2011.  He received his first star in one year and the second in 2015.  Chef Schanz previously worked in other 3-star restaurants before opening his place in this small town.  Piesport was a picturesque little town in the Mosel area, where his parents have been winemakers for years.    It is an ideal setup to have the attached hotel where you can walk inside to the restaurant and stay in a modern, comfortable room.  His father checked us in and his mother greeted guests at the restaurant – a real family operation.  Breakfast was included with the room.    The French-inspired menu is available in a 4 – 6 course tastings or a la carte.  The small room was well lit with faint music in the background.  A variety of tables filled the room, some with booth seating, which had one wall made up of windows to the outside.  At one point they offered outdoor seating but humidity had brought everyone inside.  The well-spaced tables were on a dark wood floor with minimal art and decorations.  It was very comfortable and I highly recommend it as a place to try and visit.  Chef Schanz was in the kitchen but came out toward the end of service to meet his guests as they departed.  The entire meal was 4.5 – 5 hours, so get a room if you can. Continue reading →

Sabine’s Manufaktur and Kochschule, Piesport, Germany, 3/6/24

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exterior – St. Martinstraße 45, 54498 Piesport, Germany

Sabine’s Manufaktur and Kochschule was a small place with one table for about 8.  She is a self-taught cook who decided she wanted to explore vegetarian and vegan cooking.  She now runs a school but also offers lunch.  There is no real menu just what she has cooked that day and English is limited.  The ambiance is cozy and it feels more like you are eating in her home.  She was most welcoming and the food was quite good.  No reservations are needed.  She offered a choice of tofu sausage or lentil dahl and rice.  We chose the latter.  It was a large portion of rice surrounded by the flavorful lentil dish and dotted with a non-dairy sour cream like substance.  I would recommend the place if you find yourself in the area. Continue reading →