Counter-, Charlotte, NC., 12/14/23

building – 2001 W Morehead St D, Charlotte, NC 28208

Counter- was a “full sensory experience featuring themed tasting menus” created by Chef/Owner Sam Hart.  He used music, flavor and presentation to tell a story about the theme, which was ‘Time’ the night we were there.  The Time theme worked to present an experience of the stages of aging.  The tasting menu also offers wine and non-alcoholic pairings, as well as a list of bottles for purchase and they had a truffle upgrade available.  The theme changes every 3 months and no dishes or themes are repeated for the 18 guests at the U-shaped counter.  Chef Hart, who was a semifinalist for the 2023 James Beard Best Chef: Southwest award, says that Counter will only run for 12 years with six planned evolutions.  Opening in 2020, it is currently on its second iteration.  At present the meal starts with a few bites served in the lobby of the building then moves to the counter dining room.  After the main courses you have a walk through the kitchen and then final bites are at large communal tables at the other end of the original room.  At the end of the meal, we were given a copy of the menu and a roll to take with us.  My one criticism would be the noise level, mostly the music.  I know chef wanted to immerse us in the mood but I’m more in the “time” when I like to be able to speak with other diners without yelling.  For the food portion, I’ve started the description with the course’s name.  The entire experience takes about 3 hours and one you should put on your list to try. Continue reading

Haberdish, Charlotte, NC., 12/14/23

exterior –3106 N Davidson St, Charlotte, NC 28205

Haberdish was a southern kitchen with a craft cocktail bar.   The name was a combination of haberdashery with dish meant to bring  the “mill town’s history to life through food.”  The owners, Jeff Tonidandel and wife Jamie Brown own several other restaurants in town.  It was a large place with an equally spacious covered patio on the side.  Brick walls, an open ceiling with ductwork, music in the background, and lots of hanging plants surrounded a long wall of bench seating, and dozens of tables and seats at the long bar counter.  The table tops were made with wood from the rafters of their building with bar taps being made from reused spindles from a mill.  We were there for lunch and it was fairly bright but windows were on the street wall and also to the patio.  The food was heavy, but that’s southern, and lacked nuance of flavor.   That being said it was reasonably good if it’s the type of food you’re looking for.   I’ve been to places that serve southern, heavy food that makes you want to come back again like Mrs. Wilkes Dining Room in Savannah and not sure this place falls in that category. Continue reading