Restaurant Tracé, Paris, 4/17/24

exterior – 15 Rue de Richelieu, 75001 Paris, France

Tracé is a small place right across the street from the previously written up L’Aube.  In 2020 chef Clément Vergeat re-imagined the place and it opened in Sept 2023.  The name had to do with the lines brought by all the people working there, that came together to form the place.  There are about 20 seats with a couple counter seats and otherwise tiny marble or wood tables to service the guests.  The marble ones looked particularly uncomfortable with their large pyramid-shaped legs leaving little room for the human ones underneath. Some bench seating lines the walls but it often doesn’t match the chair height on the other side of the table.  The open kitchen is surrounded by concrete walls and floor with faint music in the background.  Chef Vergeat came out to introduce himself and check about allergies but otherwise remains in the back.   There are only tasting menus and you sign up for what you want when you make the reservation with wine pairings available.  The meal had good pacing but still took about 3 hours and the portions were on the small side.  The staff were great at being able to answer questions regarding the food but it was a mixed meal. Continue reading