Central Restaurante, Lima, 4/20/16

Exterior
Exterior

A medium sized place in the Miraflores region of Lima that specializes in foods grown in Peru. They state that the tasting menu celebrates the biodiversity of Peru. The menu utilized on our visit was to explore the various altitudes from which things are sourced, from -20 meters to 3900 above sea level.  I’m not sure it worked for me as well as all the hype I’ve read about the place. It was good in an overall sense but often too many ingredients, too much colored powder in a dish along or portion size problems detracted from the experience. The website also talks a good bit about their in house filtration system providing the purest of water and yet we were sold Acqua Panna to drink with dinner.

entry light fixture
entry light fixture
table set up
table set up
interior
interior
looking into kitchen
looking into kitchen
Frankie explored the bench seat
Frankie explored the bench seat
interior
interior
menu
menu

 

There are no amuse bouche – we launched directly into the 17 course menu with spidercrab with lemon and seaweed and an abundance of something that reminded me all too much of the dip made from Lipton Onion soup mix. I have a weakness for this dip and so I liked the course but it pushed no “culinary limits” for me.

Spiders on a Rock: sargassum, limpet and crab
Spiders on a Rock: sargassum, limpet and crab
Frankie wanted a Pisco sour drink
Frankie wanted a Pisco sour drink

 

Next was variations of avocado but those that come from Calif or Mexico usually have a stronger taste than these did. The mixture with cactus was my favorite of the the 3 offerings.

Valley of the Tree: Avocado, Panca Chili Pepper, Paico
Valley of the Tree: Avocado, Panca Chili Pepper, Paico

Avacado with chili pepper

artichoke
artichoke
Carrot bread with avocado
Carrot bread with avocado

 

The corn course included corn with honey on a rock and corn soup with a corn cracker. The corn with honey was quite nice and the corn cracker was really tasty with a great corn taste but the soup was a tad tart.

Diversity of Corn: corn, honey, tumbo passion fruit
Diversity of Corn: corn, honey, tumbo passion fruit
High Jungle: Yacon, Baston Bark
High Jungle: Yacon, Baston Bark

 

 

The High Jungle course was about potatoes with a jungle potato, yacon, that was a little sweet and not very starchy with a texture like a fruit. Very fun.  It was served with the River Scales which were cured fish slices on a cracker.  The wheat like taste of the cracker overwhelmed the mild taste of the fish.

As presented
As presented
River Scales: River snails, Gamitana, Sangre de Grado
River Scales: River snails, Gamitana, Sangre de Grado
Frankie wanted one of the props
Frankie wanted one of the props
Andean Plateau: Tunta, Annato, Coca
Andean Plateau: Tunta, Annato, Coca
Frankie checked out the leaves
Frankie checked out the leaves
wine
wine
Our waiter, Stalin Damian
Our waiter, Stalin Damian

 

The Andean Plateau course was 3 different bread items and two spreads. The corn and potato bread were nice but unremarkable. The toasted butter would have been better if it had been slightly softer to spread on the delicate bread.  The other was a tomato butter which was presented with some burnt leaves whose aroma was hard to get over.

Breads
Breads

 

Potato bread
Potato bread
Corn bread
Corn bread

IMG_6848

toasted butter
toasted butter
another spread
Tomato spread
bar area
bar area

 

The Marine Soil was clams served with a sweet cucumber that tasted just like watermelon to me. The clams were wonderfully tender and blended very well with the cucumber.

Marine Soil: clams, sweet cucumber, lime
Marine Soil: clams, sweet cucumber, lime
as plated
as plated
underneath
underneath
sweet cucumber
sweet cucumber

 

Extreme Stem was various root vegetables that they were nice enough to bring to the table in their raw form for us to see.

Extreme Stem: Oca, Mashwa, Elderberry
Extreme Stem: Oca, Mashwa, Elderberry
as plated
as plated
Root vegetables
Root vegetables

 

The Colors of Amazonia was fish and nuts from the jungle. The orange is a fruit and the white is from nuts.

Colors of Amazonia: Doncella, Nut, Pijuayo, Huito
Colors of Amazonia: Doncella, Nut, Pijuayo, Huito
as plated
as plated
purse stool
purse stool

 

Harvest and Collection was beet root, passion fruit and scallops. It was nice but mild. The lettuce added a nice crunchy texture but overall there wasn’t much flavor in this dish.

Harvest and Collection: Lettuce, Scallops, Granadilla
Harvest and Collection: Lettuce, Scallops, Granadilla
as plated
as plated
wine
wine

 

Close Fishing was grilled octopus served with a broth that was slightly salty, but the octopus was cooked perfectly and had a nice grilled flavor.

Close Fishing: Octopus, Coral, Barquillo
Close Fishing: Octopus, Coral, Barquillo
as plated
as plated
broth
broth
Frankie checked out inside
Frankie checked out inside

 

The Lake Floor was chicken served in 2 piles with some molecular green stuff that was disgusting. Overall this dish had way too much goo – a dud.

Lake Floor: Chicken, Moraya, Cushuro
Lake Floor: Chicken, Moraya, Cushuro
Frankie helped turn on the water
Frankie helped turn on the water

 

The Low Andes was beef with quinoa milk and herbs.  Beef heart was shaved on top. The meat was moist even upon chewing. The dish had some nice herbs and a sauce with lots of tastes. Overall it was interesting but not compelling.

Low Andes Mountains: quinoas, beef, airampo
Low Andes Mountains: quinoas, beef, airampo
Frankie liked the bathroom sink
Frankie liked the bathroom sink

 

The Amazonian Rainforest was apple, something like kiwi, something icy  with lemon grass and way too much stuff to have any flavor to work around. It was also large considering its placement in the tasting. Portion size began to take a toll on you at this point.

Amazonian Rainforest: Rose Apple, Pitahaya, Lemon Grass
Amazonian Rainforest: Rose Apple, Pitahaya, Lemon Grass
Frankie checked it out
Frankie checked it out

 

The Green Highlands chocolate,  ice cream and herbs which was good. The green shavings were also chocolate. Overall it was okay but not great.

Green Highlands: Lucuma, Cacao, Chaco Clay
Green Highlands: Lucuma, Cacao, Chaco Clay
as plated
as plated

 

The Valley Between the Andes several pieces, one chocolate jelly with lemon verbena, a mushroom root and some juice.

as presented
as presented
close up
close up
Valley Between the Andes: Roots, Sanki, Sacha Inchi
Valley Between the Andes: Roots, Sanki, Sacha Inchi
close up
close up
Solar Mucilage: O. I. Water, Theobromas
Solar Mucilage: O. I. Water, Theobromas
cover
cover

 

cover

2 thoughts on “Central Restaurante, Lima, 4/20/16

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