Ratanà is a medium sized place in an old house that is updated inside and surrounded by construction and skyscrapers. They had some air conditioning on the warm day we were there but it was not the most efficient system. It is known for Milanese slow food cooking. They get a crowd for lunch but many seemed there for business because most of the crowd didn’t linger for a long relaxed lunch. It is a fairly small menu at lunch but a large wine list. The waitstaff was helpful and opinionated but there was a small misunderstanding in that our tartar did not get ordered, which turned out to be okay. Portions are fairly large and the food is mildly flavored. They do not charge for their beautiful bread that was pretty unexciting.
We started with one of the things they are known for, mondeghili, or Milanese style meatballs. (They are also known for their breadsticks but they were out that day.) These are not like meatballs from other places. They are made with the soft inside of the bread that is soaked in milk and seasoned with some type of bologna. In Ratanà’s case it tasted like they use Mortadella for seasoning. They are soft and pinkish inside and fried with a crisp exterior. They were served in a paper cone and were pretty tasty.
We also tried the yellow tomato cream on the waiter’s suggestion. It was served like soup but had the consistency of applesauce. For the height of summer the tomatoes were very mild tasting and the overall flavor was sweet rather than tart. The portion was too large and our interest in the dish ran out before the serving did.
We had read that they served the best Milanese version of risotto with ossobuco but I wonder. The veal was very tender and served with a very savory gravy. The risotto was tasty but a bit gummy and it may be a signature dish for them but I’d develop a different one to serve on a hot summer day. This would have been much more appealing on a cool fall or winter day. Don’t get me wrong, it was a good dish but not a standout.
For dessert we had their figs with fig sorbet. It was served with a crispy biscuit and a sculpted piece of chocolate. The fresh figs were mildly flavored as was the sorbet but when you mixed all the components together it was a decent sweet fix.