Pertinence, Paris, 11/30/17

17634729_1311278148965357_41170642959506995_nPertinence is a very stylish small place with only about 10 tables, whose name means “food for all”.  The ceiling and back wall are lined with wood slats that morph into a seating bench, two other walls are covered with heavy vinyl drapes and the final wall is large windows looking out on the street.  Copper accents make up the window and door frames. There is a window to the kitchen on the wood slat wall where you can peek and see chefs Ryunosuke Naito from Japan and Kwen Liew from Malaysia create their excellently flavored foods.  Tables are bare at lunch (clothed at dinner) but do provide a generous lovely linen napkin.  Soft music adds a bit of background noise which was good.  A large brass egg  is on the table and hidden inside is additional silverware. The restaurant opened last spring and serves a la carte as well as a tasting menu.  I want to credit Pertinence for the use of their exterior and interior pictures, as mine didn’t work. 

Chef at work
Chef Liew at work
17626284_1311278195632019_5655843514135773672_n
interior and evening table set up

 

We called ahead to reserve the evening tasting at lunch which is 6 courses with optional pairings.  The menu started with a cauliflower cream and comté cheese mousse that was smooth, creamy and luscious.  Thin little pieces of pastry decorate the top that added a bit of crunch.  A wonderful start.

amuse
cauliflower cream and comté cheese mousse
wine
wine

 

Housemade butter is served with warm doughy bread that had a good crisp exterior and dense center.

roll
roll
butter
butter
Frankie looked out the windwo
Frankie looked out the window

 

Pan seared scallops with a chicken oyster, garlic flower stem and Grenoble style sauce.  A chicken based sauce was reduced to sticky goodness and accented with capers and lemon.  There was a lot going on with this dish but it was all very tasty and blended nicely together.  It also had a great aftertaste.

scallops
Pan seared scallops, chicken oyster, garlic flower stem, Grenoble-style sauce
detail
detail
Frankie explored the big egg
Frankie explored the big egg

 

Pan seared foie gras was served with seasonal vegetables and a kumquat sauce.  Seared salsify and mushroom cream added additional flavors.  Every ingredient was scrumptious and lovely.  This was classic French cooking at its best – a rich, heavy sauce on perfectly cooked foie gras and mushrooms that sang with flavor.

foie gras mushroom
Pan seared foie gras.  Seasonal vegetables, sauce kumquat

 

closer
closer
other side
other side
Frankie admired the fancy spoon
Frankie admired the fancy spoon for the next course

 

Line caught sea bass was served with mashed purple potatoes and a yellow wine sauce.  The fish was cooked perfectly with crispy bits on top of the crisped skin.  Again, everything blended beautifully in another winning dish.

fish
Line caught sea bass was served with mashed purple potatoes and a yellow wine sauce
closer
closer
other side
other side
from the top
from the top
Frankie wanted some
Frankie wanted some

 

Veal sweetbread pie with foie gras was served with sherry vinegar and veal jus.  A perfect puff pastry encased wonderfully cooked sweetbreads and foie gras.  It was absolutely delicious.  Savory, buttery and totally yummy.  It was served with a side salad of very fresh greens dressed with a light vinaigrette.  It was a great pairing for the rich pie.  Yum x2.

presentation
presentation
pie
Veal sweetbread pie with foie gras, veal jus
inside
closer
from the top
from the top
back
other side
side salad
side salad
clsoer
closer
Frankie checked out the art
Frankie checked out the art

 

The cheese course was roquefort mousse and a lightly salted brie cheese accented with gooseberry preserves and prune caramel.  A slice of dry toast was just right to add to these magnificent flavors.

cheese
cheese
closer
closer
detail
detail
detail
detail
Frankie played on the towels
Frankie played on the towels

 

For dessert they suggested a sweet saki;  it was 15 euros a glass.  Dessert was pears, apples, green sorbet and lemon souffle with a pear souffle sauce.  It was refreshing and smooth and blended nicely with the saki but not terribly sweet.  It was the only hiccup to me, who wanted a tad bigger sweet fix to finish this fine meal.

saki
saki
apple
apple
closer
closer
closer
closer
from the other side
from the other side
IMG_0984
Chefs Ryunosuke Naito and Kwen Liew with Frankie

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