A small place that has 2 Michelin stars and calls itself “relaxed elegance” – it lives up to its reputation and motto. There are 5 tables and 8 stools facing the open kitchen and probably as many service people as patrons. The servers provided well paced and very friendly service yet made you feel like royalty for the night. They serve only one tasting menu which is seasonally driven. One very Swedish touch are the cold wet towels that were passed out a couple different times as opposed to the usual hot clothes.
We started with green tomato tea while making wine choices and noticing the spelt bread proofing on the table. They have the menu on the table for you to follow along which is a helpful and appreciated detail.
Next was the macaroon with rhubarb and foie gras and a dot of balsamic vinegar,which was tart, rich and delicious.
Then to a stacked course of potatoes with an oyster and leek cake on top and creamed and pressed potatoes in the bottom portion with caviar “gold” and vichyssoise that were a real “bowl licker”. The dish served with this was an interesting mix of flavors (set onion soup, licorice and toasted almond with goat’s cream) which eaten separately were nowhere as good as when they were combined into a dreamy bit of heaven. (Chef Marcus above right)
The langoustines from the west coast of Sweden were deep fried with crispy rice and they were so good I didn’t want to dilute the flavor with the wonderful dill emulsion.
The server churned the cream at the table into butter which she then put in the small simmer pan to be used for the fish course.
The scallops were from an island off Norway and were tender and sweet and mixed well with the dashi broth, finger lime and pine tree oil.
The salad was a bit of everything and it was preceded by a list of 46 possible ingredients that are grown in their garden. It was accompanied by our just made bread.
The melt in you mouth turbot was slowly baked and part was served with umami puree and other part with the churned butter that had been made and melted table side and then mixed with broth of the fishbones and poured over part but left at the table if you wanted more, and who wouldn’t? Yummy! Grilled lemon and salt was served on the side but wasn’t needed.
The Guinea fowl was served with vinaigrette of roasted skin and a side dish of morels stuffed with fowl forcemeat and Perigord truffle puree, that you would swear was foie gras and blissfully reminded me of ‘oyster and pearls’ at Per se, which made sense when we found Chef Marcus had just finished working there. A great course!
We finished the savories with a face-off of Swedish dairy cow aged 40 days and Kagoshima wagyu beef. Both were tremendous and served with a tasty Tellicherry pepper and grilled beef and fermented mushroom tea.
Then we started the sweets. The smoked ice cream with salted date toffee, bitter cacao beans and hazelnut was truly amazing
If we didn’t feel special enough the server presented us with glasses of dessert wines to go with the menu’s dessert courses. The frozen wild strawberries and shipped roses were on top of a custard with a caramelized tonka bean cookie underneath and red rosaceae and tomato marmalade. Once again the mix of all the flavors was spectacular.
Their Bento box with “fika” contained 7 treats: crispy lingonberry with aged vinegar, chervil & anise; Lemon marmelade, blueberry & lemon thyme; Tartelette with preserved blackberry, violets & meringue; Dark chocolate praline with blood cream, blackcurrants & cacao nibs; Canele de Bordeaux with buckwheat & chestnut honey; Fudge with goat’s whey & fleur de sel; Basil macaroon with Swedish strawberries & long pepper. It proved to be filled with more delightful tastes and textures.