This is a fairly large place that has been open 5 years. They offer 3 tasting menus as well as a la carte options. We chose the Viagem menu. The staff was attentive but rather serious and aloof. Their nicely embroidered table clothes are not floor length but are nice quality and all tables are adorned with non-functional black wine glasses.
Service was rushed at times and had some lapses that you wouldn’t expect at a Michelin starred place and may interfere with their ability to move up in the ratings. The sommelier appeared to suggest the same bottle of wine to several tables making one wonder how in tune they were to preferences.
The meal started with several amuse bouche courses. The bread service offered rye, corn and white breads with 2 butters and olive oil for enhancing.
The first course was a shrimp two ways – cooked and tartar – and cucumber. A sauce was made from the heads of the shrimp.
Next was squid where shreds of cucumber made up a ‘jelly fish looking’ body hiding peanuts and pink shrimp inside cabbage. It would have been nice to have a knife with the dish but a spoon worked.
The seabass came with chanterelles and a loin of Atlantic blue lobster. Jerusalem artichoke puree and a lobster sauce finished the plate. The sauce was too stong for me however the fish was plain without it. The lobster was a bit tough and too strong with the sauce. This course was not a winner.
The truffle course included a number of wild mushrooms and fresh leaves with a truffle emulsion. It was more mushroom flavored than truffle and almost sticky in texture. It was a nice strong flavor though.
The beef came with bone marrow on top and the spinach was topped with oxalis leaves. I have had tastier Galician beef but by this point I was getting pretty full and knew dessert was still to come.
The pre-dessert meringues were filled with “smoke” and it made a fun interlude to play with.
The main dessert was beets in different textures-sliced, sorbet- with raspberry crisps and fresh. All served with vanilla cream. It was quite unique and a wonderful combination of flavors and textures. The after-desserts were not throw-aways but not as intense as others I’ve had. Overall a nice meal but it just didn’t feel like it lived up to its potential.
