Le Timbre, Paris, 3/1/16

exterior
exterior

This very small place is named perfectly – it is a postage stamp sized restaurant, but it is packed with happy customers. Chef Danet and his partner Agnès Peyre have owned the place for about 18 months and seem to navigate the challenges of such a small place without a hitch. They offer a set menu in which you can choose to have 3, 4 or 5 courses with increasing prices and scaled portions. It is quite reasonable as is the wine list, which Peyre will assist you with.

interior - see thru kitchen
interior – see thru kitchen

There is no amuse,  extra desserts, explanations of your food, tweezer preparations or tableclothes but you’ll leave satisfied with the visit. It goes toward a stylized look down to some very strange wine  glasses that are difficult to drink from as they’re more like a brandy snifter.

table set up
table set up
interesting wine & water glasses
interesting wine & water glasses
menu
menu
wine
wine
interesting shelf
stylized shelf
Frankie thought it was nice to have salt on the table
Frankie thought it was nice to have salt on the table

 

We chose the 5 course menu and started with white asparagus dish that was covered with a crumbled hard boiled egg yolk and crumbled proscuitto. The yolk dissolved into the sauce to make a creamy sludge that was actually quite pleasant. It was a savory and delicious dish.

White asparagus from Landes, broth
White asparagus from Landes, broth
Frankie wanted us to finish the bread so she could nap in the bowl
Frankie wanted us to finish the bread so she could nap in the bowl

 

The clams and fish were next and unfortunately the fish was a bit dry and slightly salty. Some of the clams had a bit of a metallic taste and overall this course didn’t match the goodness of the first.

Roasted stone bass, clams
Roasted stone bass, clams
Frankie took a nap on the bench seat
Frankie took a nap on the bench seat

 

The pork belly was served with a celery root pureè and tasted as if it had been seasoned with anise. It was topped with chopped nuts and was very tasty but a tad drier than many pork bellies I’ve had.

Braised pork belly
Braised pork belly

 

The duck was cooked nicely and served with a turnip slice and stalk of puntarelle along with a potato  dish.  The puntarelle was predictably bitter and added an unpleasant taste to the slightly livery duck breast.

Ducking filet from Challans, potatoe casserole, green cabbage
Ducking filet from Challans, potato casserole, green cabbage
another plate
another plate view

 

Finish strong and that was true of the mango dessert that came with bits of crisp meringue and herbs. The meringue added a nice bit of crunch to the smooth ripe mango but I found the herbs a distracting touch to the subtle tarragon infused ice cream, still I didn’t leave a bite!  It’s nice to eat at a place where the chef is seen actually making and plating your food. It’s good honest food.

Mango and home-made tarragon ice cream
Mango and home-made tarragon ice cream
Chef Charles Danet in his kitchen
Chef Charles Danet in his kitchen
herbs
herbs
Frankie checked out the shelving
Frankie checked out the shelving
Chef in the kitchen, his wife serves as waitstaff
Chef in the kitchen, his partner, Agnès Peyre, serves as waitstaff
Front end person Agnès Peyre chats with customers
Front end person Agnès Peyre chats with customers
Frankie liked the tiny bathroom sink
Frankie liked the tiny bathroom sink

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