Del Cambio, Turin, 9/9/16

building
building

Del Cambio is a fairly large restaurant in Turin, about an hour on a high speed train from Milan. There has been a restaurant in this building since the 1700s which has hosted the likes of Audrey Hepburn, Mozart and Maria Callas during its time.  One side of the formal dining room is windows which look out to lovely buildings that at one time were the seat of government.  According to a waiter, some government officials would dine and relax  and only return to their job when summoned by a wave out the window across the street. The dining room behind us with the mural was the original room and where we sat was more of a covered porch area, but now that area is the formal one and a piano and paintings have made the other more casual.  

interior
interior, formal room
long shot of the dining room
long shot of the dining room
interior
interior
another dining area
another dining area for quick lunch
another dining room with mural
another dining room with mural
mural
mural

 

One other dining area is where you enter and I think that’s where you were seated if you wanted their quick lunch.  In the formal dining room they offer a 6 or 9 course surprise tasting as well as  a la carte.  The chef, Matteo Baronetto, was head chef at Cracco for around 20 years and you can see the overlap in style.  It’s also another throwback where the women don’t get menus with prices.  As we looked over the options we had an iced bowl of compressed watermelon and cantaloupe chunks (tasted great!)  to snack on as well as vegetable and leaf fried chips and home made “black and white” bread and breadsticks.

table set up
table set up
Frankie checked out the table flower
Frankie checked out the table flower
starting sparkler
starting sparkler
Menu cover
Menu cover

img_6037

Starters Menu
Starters Menu
First course menu
First course menu
second course menu
second course menu
compressed fruit to start
compressed fruit to start
fried chips for snacks
fried chips for snacks
Frankie liked the long red bench
Frankie liked the long red bench
bread
bread
wine
wine

 

The meal started with sea urchin filled with meat jus and lemon.  The flavor of the urchin blended really nicely with the juices to make a visually interesting course also taste good.

Sea urchins, meat jus and lemon
Sea urchins, meat jus and lemon

 

Next was the salmon roe sandwich.  The roe was perched a top salad greens and sandwiched between thin, very crisp pieces of bread cut into a leaf shape. It is hand food and it seemed hard to eat without making a mess and I’d call it okay.

Bread leaf, salmon roe and songino salad
Bread leaf, salmon roe and songino salad
side view
side view

 

The eggs had been marinated and mixed with anchovies and lemon which were then placed around the salad greens, which had pieces of meringue around it. There was something spicy in the ingredients, which all together produced a wonderful meld of flavors and textures.

Millefoglie of salad, marinated egg yolk, anchovies and lemon meringue
Millefoglie of salad, marinated egg yolk, anchovies and lemon meringue
other side
other side

 

The brulee was made with olive oil, no eggs or flour, and used squid for gelatin (if I understood correctly) . Sea snails added a delicious texture to the smooth custard.  This was a winner!

Olive oil and vanilla "creme brulee" and murex
Olive oil and vanilla “creme brulee” and murex
as plated
as plated
Frankie checked out the breadsticks
Frankie checked out the breadsticks

 

Prawns were next and they were served with tomato sauce, fresh tomatoes, cooked lettuce, and crispy basil. The shrimp were slightly cooked. Overall the flavor was nice but not great.

Prawns with tomato juice and basil meringue
Prawns with tomato juice and basil meringue

 

The codfish had been cooked sous vide style and then smoked with rosemary. It was served with a salad smoked in Lapsang tea. The fish was nicely cooked but the smoking gave is a slightly bitter taste whereas the smoking on the salad gave it a distinctive and strong taste, but one I didn’t appreciate.

Smoked codfish with smoked salad on the eside
Smoked codfish with smoked salad on the eside
codfish
codfish
salad
salad

 

The pappardelle were made with rice flour and presented as a take on “cacio e pepe”. It was very simple but also VERY good. One interesting note is that it’s served cold. Give this a yum.

Pappardelle with "cacio" cheese and black pepper
Pappardelle with “cacio” cheese and black pepper

 

The quail was roasted and served with olives and nervetti or nerve of veal. Rather than a nerve it’s actually a tendon and has the texture of a large piece of thick gelatin. It was fried and the crispy coating really added to it for a very savory edible. The quail was perfectly cooked and together they made an unusual but good course.

Roasted quail with meat jus, black pepper and veal "nervetti"
Roasted quail with meat jus, black pepper and veal “nervetti”
another angle
another angle
Frankie found a nice supply of towels in the bathroom
Frankie found a nice supply of towels in the bathroom

 

The ginduiotto were shaped like the classic Italian candy Gianduja, but had different filling. They were served with blackberry sorbet with a seedy disk underneath and a disk of sugar with coffee. They mixed together well for a fun series of tastes and textures. To finish the meal as we started you also had a tray of dried fruits, coated nuts and a tray with chocolate cream puffs, macaroons, and lemon circles which were tart, sweet and smooth.

Ginduitto
Ginduitto
inside
inside
tower
tower
desserts layout
desserts layout
dried crispy fruits
dried crispy fruits

img_6229

nuts
nuts
chocolate nuts
chocolate nuts
Frankie looked for canteloupe
Frankie looked for cantaloupe
Chef Matteo Baronetto and Frankie
Chef Matteo Baronetto and Frankie

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