Restaurant Geranium, Copenhagen, 9/24/16

building
building

Geranium has undergone some changes to the interior of the restaurant since we were last there. There is now an open kitchen in the main dining room, the banquet seats have been replaced with comfortable chairs, wall coverings have been removed to expose more windows and the Paul Bocuse Award Statuettes are now in a case out front. It continues to offers top notch service and an extraordinary view from the 8th floor of the non-descript building it is hidden in, as well as stunningly beautiful and flavorful food. Chef Rasmus Kofoed is still in the kitchen and as welcoming as ever. They offer one tasting menu at lunch and dinner for all guests and wine or juice pairing options.  There are no upgrades, supplements or silliness, just an afternoon or evening of deliciousness and pampering by the excellent staff.

sign
sign
waiting area
waiting area
Frankie found the menu waiting on the table
Frankie found the menu waiting on the table
great view
great view
they've added an open kitchen
they’ve added an open kitchen
looking toward lounge area
looking toward lounge area

 

The meal starts with a series of appetizers, first being a combination of Danish lobster and custard with a great color derived from carrots and sea buckthorn. It was mildly flavored but a visual treat.

Lobster, milk and juice from fermented carrots and sea buckthorn
Lobster, milk and juice from fermented carrots and sea buckthorn

 

It went up from there with leaves made from Jerusalem artichoke served with a sauce of garlic and walnut. The sauce was very nice but I hated to dilute the incredible taste of the thin, crisp artichoke leaves.

Jerusalem artichoke leaves, walnut oil and rye vinegar
Jerusalem artichoke leaves, walnut oil and rye vinegar
another angle
another angle
dipping sauce
dipping sauce
wine
wine

 

Next was a spoon filled with flowers and herbs to mix into a tomato water that was dotted with ham fat. The tomato water had a texture more like gelatin and the fat added the perfect touch of salt to the savory simple dish and then the herbs brought it to another level of good.

tomato water, ham fat and aromatic herbs
tomato water, ham fat and aromatic herbs
Aromatic herbs
Aromatic herbs
tomato water
tomato water
Frankie looked at the menu
Frankie looked at the menu

 

The charcoal potatoes are black but do not have a hint of burnt taste, rather the simple but wonderful taste of fresh potato is crowned with an amazing sheep’s butter.  I saw the fellow at the next table finish off every bit of that butter. Yum!

Charred potato in aroma from bark and sheep's butter
Charred potato in aroma from bark and sheep’s butter
charred potatoes
charred potatoes
closer
closer

 

Salted mackerel was wrapped in dill coating and served alongside horseradish cream and dill pickle sorbet. It was an interesting combination of flavors that worked well.

"Dillstone" mackerel (goes with cream and frozen juice)
“Dillstone” mackerel (goes with cream and frozen juice)
Horseradish and frozen juice from dill pickle
Horseradish and frozen juice from dill pickle
inside
inside
Frankie read all the notes
Frankie read all the notes

 

Faux razor clams were the last appetizer. They are a signature dish, according to our waiter, and are made from a thin piece of dough stuffed with clams and sour cream.  Very good!

"Razor Clam" with minerals and sour cream
“Razor Clam” with minerals and sour cream
closer
closer
inside
inside

 

The first main dish was a celeriac and scallop, with the celeriac served in grilled celeriac juice. The scallops were part of a tart covered with dried trout.

Celeriac, scallop and dried trout (separate picture)
Celeriac, scallop and dried trout (separate picture)
closer
closer
Dried trout
Dried trout
another angle
another angle
Frankie liked the wine
Frankie liked the wine

 

The salted hake was slightly smoked as accented with ashes of parsley that made it look like a piece of marble.  It was then covered with Finnish caviar in buttermilk and finally adorned with crispy fish scales.  It was too pretty to eat but I did! The fish scales were a perfect crunch and the flavors combined into a luscious taste. Fun and tasty!

presentation
presentation
first garnish
first garnish
then fried scales
then fried scales
close up
close up

 

The breads and cow butter. The sour dough rolls were mixed with whipped buttermilk and covered with pumpkin and sunflower seeds and I could have eaten the entire plate. The tall leaves were perfectly crisp and buttery cheese bites.  All were hot and wonderful.

Crispy grains, bread with old grains and gluten free bread with seeds
Crispy grains, bread with old grains and gluten free bread with seeds
Gluten free bread with seeds
Gluten free bread with seeds
bread with grains
bread with grains
Frankie checked out the breads
Frankie checked out the breads

 

Next were the creamy vegetables with oysters. Another visually pretty dish and equally tasty with the flavors blending wonderfully.

Creamy vegetables with oyster, peas and pickled elderflowers
Creamy vegetables with oyster, peas and pickled elderflowers
inside
inside

 

The egg yolk was pickled in the next dish to mix with “Vesterhavs” cheese, leeks and herbs. Some of the onions had been grilled to add a really nice accent.

Wild herbs, leek, smoked port fat and melted "Vesterhavs" cheese
Wild herbs, leek, smoked port fat and melted “Vesterhavs” cheese
closer
closer
Frankie watched the wine service
Frankie watched the wine service
red wine
red wine

 

King crab from Norway was covered with cabbage and covered with oyster flowers and then covered with a broth made from the crab shells and skeletons and brown butter. You had me at brown butter – it was superb!

King crab in cabbage, beach plants and Sol vinegar
King crab in cabbage, beach plants and Sol vinegar
closer
closer
crab
crab
Frankie checked out the cork holder
Frankie checked out the cork holder

 

The last main dish was pork served with an arc of kohlrabi and covered with flowers. The flowers did have flavor not just looks and the pork was a perfect bit of heavy protein to close out the savory dishes.

Grilled pork on the "bone", pickled pine and blackcurrant leaves
Grilled pork on the “bone”, pickled pine and blackcurrant leaves
closer
closer
interior
interior

 

Desserts started with a sphere of rhubarb yogurt with sweet beetroot juice inside, surrounded by blackcurrant leaves and something with a citrus essence. It was a one bite explosion of great flavor.

A bite of beetroot, rhubarb, yoghurt and tagetes
A bite of beetroot, rhubarb, yoghurt and tagetes
closer
closer
Frankie tried to seesaw on the spoon
Frankie tried to seesaw on the spoon

 

The beeswax ice cream was served with blueberries from Sweden. The ice cream was incredibly smooth and the berries great. A delightful combination.

Ice cream from Beeswax, pollen and honey with blueberries
Ice cream from Beeswax, pollen and honey with blueberries
ice cream
ice cream
Blueberries
Blueberries
Frankie played in the tray
Frankie played in the tray
Did she eat that ice cream?
Did she eat that ice cream?

 

Next was a trip into the forrest with white chocolate ice cream covered with woodruff and sorrel and a frozen bit of something and adorned with a tree of dried and caramelized sugar. This one didn’t work for me, the icy bit watered down the taste of the custard and the herbs were distracting rather than enhancing. The previous one was much better.

Wood sorrell and woodruff
Wood sorrell and woodruff
inside
inside
Valentina met Frankie
Valentina met Frankie

 

“The End” was a black skull in the middle of a white plate.  It was a salted licorice and cocoa butter outside filled with a light, fluffy and sweet substance.  Not too sweet and fun visually but I’d still chose the beeswax ice cream course.

"The End"
“The End”
closer
closer
inside
inside
Frankie lounged on the soft towels
Frankie lounged on the soft towels

 

We had a tour of the place with a description of all the changes next and then the final section was sweets and I was so busy getting down the description I didn’t get pictures of them before we bit into them. There was a caramel with pickled fennel, a white chocolate ball filled with cookie dough, a pine egg filled with caramel and a cake with pumpkin seed oil. None wowed me.

coffee service
coffee service
two at a time
two at a time
press
press
result
result
Melissa with Frankie
Melissa with Frankie
cake with pumpkin seed oil
cake with pumpkin seed oil
img_8645
pine powder egg filled with caramel
Frankie thanked chef Paul for the tour
Frankie with chef Paul who gave us a tour

 

Frankie toured the wine cellar
Frankie toured the wine cellar
more
more
wine storage
wine storage
extra dining room
extra dining room
extra room ha
extra room ha
storage closet
storage closet
Frankie couldn't get close to the Bocuse statues this year
Frankie couldn’t get close to the Bocuse statues this year
Chef with Frankie
Chef Rasmus Kofoed with Frankie
Frankie rode the statue in the entry
Frankie rode the statue in the entry

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