Søllerød Kro is a short train ride, to the northern suburbs of Copenhagen. It is located in a large house like building divided into many smaller rooms for dining or private parties. It has been a restaurant for over 100 years with one current employee having worked there 32 years. They received their first Michelin star in 2006. The atmosphere is formal with suited waiters and lots of silver trays, however the servers are happy to provide the diner with additional information about the food if you ask. For example, we were unfamiliar with cowberries and the waiter told us about them and then brought out a container of them for us to see. Outside there is a large patio with more casual dining. They offer 2 tasting menus as well as a la carte options. We chose the longer Signature tasting for our Sunday brunch meal.
The tasting started with some snacks, first being cauliflower in different forms, including foam and crumbles. It was nice. Also a potato and asparagus tart like bite that was crunchy and good. A roll up of duck breast with a sweet filling. It was chewy and good. Last was an apple bite that had a distinctly floral taste – very refreshing. Then the breads were brought out, one of walnut and malt syrup. The white loaf is seasoned with Pilsner beer. Both were great. They were served with 2 options of butter, a disk of salted butter from the north, Jutland, and a kiss shaped one that was made with buttermilk. I preferred the stronger taste of the salted butter.
One more amuse bouche before the tasting started was a soup of celeriac, trout roe, green tea, apple and chervil oil. It had light tastes of apple and lemon and was quite refreshing and very nice.
The tasting starts with Ossetra caviar, from a 14-16 year old fish, served in its tin on top of razor clams, celery and custard. It is accompanied by horseradish cream between thin, crispy slices of bread. This course had been on their menu since 2005 and is considered a signature dish. They are proud of this caviar as they are the only place to have access to this caviar beside the royal family. Their share of it is made less salty and was a perfect mix with the other ingredients. You can easily see why this delicious dish has stayed on their menu.
Next is more caviar but his time from a Bulgarian 10-12 year old Sturgeon, mixed with mussel foam. An excellent dish with rich foam and a custardy center that blended perfectly with this saltier caviar.
The Norwegian scallops are served with brussels sprout leaves, hazelnuts, crispy rye and pine pear. The scallops are thin slices on the bottom and when mixed together the dish has the essence of a salad but is warm. It was so good – double yum! The crispy rye and hazelnuts add totally fun punctuation.
The Danish black lobster is next. It has been roasted in its shell and served with onion jam. The decadent sauce on the lobster is made with cream, walnuts, onions, morels and Vin jaune (French wine similar to dry Sherry). A pretty amazing dish that made you want to lick the plate clean.
The duck foie gras is served as a torchon made with duck fat, cognac and cherries. A great dish! The cherry jam was better than the several whole pieces on the plate. The foie gras had a great consistency, rich and smooth with a tad of something spicy. Another awesome plate of tastes.
The turbot was roasted and served with burgundy snails and cream sauce and then topped with fish foam and salad. A good mix of flavors and textures. The snails were nicely chewy and succulent and the turbot was cooked perfectly. One flaw was that there was a bit too much sauce, but better too much than not enough.
The Danish beef is a tenderloin served with a slice of pork jowl and topped with a piece of puff pastry and grated truffle. It was served on a truffle sauce. The tender beef under the lovely crust, covered with truffles and garnished with a wonderful rich sauce = triple YUM!
Some lemon macaroons and tea helped ready our palette for dessert. They also brought out the lemonade they make with elderflower and cowberry schnapps. It was tart but grew on me.
Dessert was a spiral of hazelnut, brown cheese and hay milk. Cows that only eat hay produce hay milk. It was served with hazelnut ice cream and a waffle. It was a great dessert, pretty and a perfect amount of sweetness.