Il Ridotto, Venice, 10/21/16

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Exterior

Il Ridotto is a small place with just two rooms, one having just 4 tables.  Chef owner Gianni Bonaccorsi watches over all from the front counter and you will see the staff running across the walkway to another building where some of the supplies are kept. We were here before for lunch, several years ago, and while the interior feels unchanged chef doesn’t seem to be doing the cooking now.  At dinner he offers 2 tasting menus, one of meat and the other seafood. There also is an a la carte menu and this evening a truffle menu too.  The tables are set with lovely linens,  Venetian glassware and modern comfortable chairs. I heard more Italian than English on this visit. The staff are friendly and helpful, but not overly so. We had the 5 course tasting of the land for which the chef makes the selection of your dishes except for dessert, which you get to choose. 

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Window sign
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Table set up
lunch menu
lunch menu
Tasting menu options
Tasting menu options
a la carte menu
a la carte menu
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Dessert menu
truffle menu
truffle menu
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Frankie admired the glassware

 

This evening the amuse bouche was a combination of pumpkin, chicory, cheese and anchovy. The anchovy was an interesting blend with the tasty, sweet pumpkin, but the overall taste of the dish was mild.

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Pumpkin, chicory, cheese and anchovy
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Breads
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Frankie gave the oil a sniff
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wine

 

Our tasting started with the langoustine and cauliflower puree.  A very pretty presentation but again a mild flavor content.

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Cauliflowers, langoustines and almonds
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As plated
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another angle
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Chef/owner Gianni Bonaccorsi
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Frankie found a plant

 

The beef tartar was in two forms, one with parmesan and the other with truffle, which were bridged by a cascade of nuts and mustard. The nuts were a good mix and the truffles added some real flavor, enough that I wondered if the meat might have been seasoned with truffle oil too.  The parmesan crisp was tasty but I’ve had much better. The mustard seemed an unusual addition for Italian cooking but it was good with the tartar whose meat texture was more ground than chopped.

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The two beef tartares, with tomato powder and black truffle
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As plated
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Frankie admired the dish

 

The fish soup featured 2 pasta shapes, fish, shrimp, mussels, clams and squid rings. It was all garnished with a peeled grape tomato.  The color of the broth made me keep expecting it to taste like pumpkin. The seafood was all cooked nicely but nothing was really special here. It could have benefitted from a salt shaker or some kind of seasoning.

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Tubetti – pasta- in stock of the local Fish “Go” and aromatic herbs
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as plated
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Frankie always enjoys art

 

The suckling pig was served with a bean purée which had taste but seemed wrong with the pork. The seasonings used gave the dish the essence of sausage rather than pure roast meat.  It was dry, as to be expected for tenderloin and the vegetable medley felt like a pathetic attempt.  My carrot slice had been carefully cut into a triangular shape and yet left a large portion of the green top in the cut. The vegetables had been barely cooked and the sauce lacked any richness.  Again this dish needed some taste.

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Filet of suckling pig with puree of beans and raspberries sauce
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as plated
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Layers of the potato
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close up pork
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Frankie helped separate the potato layers

 

For dessert the ricotta cheese ice cream with pistachios had candied orange peel and cookie crumbles underneath.  The cookies melted into the ice cream and sauce and was very good but was an unattractive plate. Just close your eyes and eat.

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beginning
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Add sauce
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Finished – Ricotta cheese ice cream with salted pistachios, candied orange and hot chocolate sauce
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As plated
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Frankie watched the chocolate drip

 

The mille-feuille was accented with pear purée, red wine sauce and preserved pear.  Pear was also inside the layers of the dessert. It was tasty but I found the wine sauce to be too tart a contrast with the sweet and buttery pastry.

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Mille-feuille with Mascarpone cream and red wine scented pears
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closer
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Frankie checked the empty plate

 

In Michelin style a tray of extra treats was served.  Included were an out of season raspberry on an un-buttery crust which was not that good. A tandoori apple was nicely spicy and fairly tasty. The cream puff with a crispy sugary top had the cream of the mille-feuille inside and was actually pretty good.

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Extra treats
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Raspberry stuffed with cream on crust
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Frankie studied the raspberry
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Tandori apple
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Cream puff with crispy sugar top
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Chef watches over all from the front desk
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Frankie looked over the towel tray
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Frankie said the toilet paper matched her fur

2 thoughts on “Il Ridotto, Venice, 10/21/16

  1. As affionardo’s of the city, we visit each year in February for one week, we have sussed out great restaurants.
    We dined here on a rather miserable rainy night, the welcome was a rather non event, only 2 other diners here.
    Although excited by the interior of the restaurant, the food was okay but extremely expensive for what you get, but the worse thing was the service. The staff were totally miserable, and a couple came in who they knew, so everyone else was totally ignored
    Suggest you give it a miss, there are far better Michelin style restaurants if you look deeply enough

    1. You are spot on! Our dinner in the fall of 2016 was dull and lifeless. We had been there a couple years prior (before I started this blog) and had a fun and tasty lunch but chef was still cooking at that time. So we decided to try it again for dinner but now he only stands at the counter and the cooking is done by others. The place looks the same but the prices have risen and quality has gone way down. I would not go back again but wanted to give it another try based on our positive first visit. There are so many much better places to eat in Venice. What are your favorites? I’d love to find some new spots. We like to go there at least once a year, in the off season – lol!

      A tip if you haven’t already found it – check out Marisa Convento’s Venetian Dreams store. It is a TINY place near St. Marks across from an “everything’s 10 euros” store. She sells Venetian beads made by a couple local artisans and then she assembles them. If she doesn’t have what you want, you describe it and she can pretty much make it. She is a delightful woman and knows much history of the area. You may have seen her picture on some trash cans where she was part of a campaign to support local artists. She is really a treat to visit with. No, I’m not on her payroll, just a huge fan of her work. Hope you give it a look on your next visit – tell her Frankie and Helen sent you! She’s shared many a dinner with Frankie and me.

      Great dining and travels to you!
      Helen and Frankie

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