Les Déserteurs, Paris, 11/30/17

entrance
entrance

Les Déserteurs is a tiny place that holds about 20 people at mostly 2-top tables.  When you enter you immediately notice the open kitchen on one end and benches lining the the two other walls.  They do supply you with plenty of bolsters that you can use for back support or as a divider between you and the next table’s guests.  Lighting is nicely lowered, but not too dark, and soft background music plays.  The windows on the back wall appeared to look out on a courtyard but it was too dark to really tell for sure.  They have been open about 4 years and are furnished with bare wood tables but lovely cloth napkins.  The menu is a choice of 4 or 6 courses and the menu denotes which courses are included in the 4 course.  They have a really nice wine list and the menu does offer a couple supplemental charge options.  We chose the 6 course menu and our own bottles of wine.

looking in
looking in
sign out front
sign out front
menu
menu
table set up
table set up
Frankie checked out the candle
Frankie checked out the candle

 

We started with different colors of carrots mixed with grapefruit, a rose coulis with tamarind and green pepper from Cambodia (Kampot).  It was a mildly flavored dish and while all the components were good alone they were best when mixed together.  Bread was a nice white variety, not warm but very moist and chewy.

carrots with grapefruit, rose coulis, tamarind
carrots with grapefruit, rose coulis, tamarind
closer
closer
bread
bread
wine
wine
Frankie could see out the window
Frankie could see out the window

 

Roasted vegetables were served with chanterelles, parsnip and “vanilla” sauce.  The sauce was made from a root that tastes like vanilla.  The potatoes in the dish almost melted in your mouth and the dark bits in the photo are dried mushrooms.  This dish had great bursts of flavor that melded into a wonderful blend of taste.  A really good one here.

Roasted vegetables and chanterelles
Roasted vegetables and chanterelles
closer
closer
underneath
underneath
Frankie took a nap on the bolster
Frankie took a nap on the bolster
Frankie and fun waitress Zoe
Fun and sweet waitress Zoe with Frankie

 

Scallops and little potatoes (Ratte) were served with crab sauce.   The scallops were very tender and lightly cooked and the small yellow potatoes were firm yet perfectly tender with a nice strong potato flavor.  I also found bits of saffron in the sauce that added to the wonderful flavor.  Winner here.

scallops and Ratte potatoes
scallops and Ratte potatoes
closer
closer
from the back
from the back
wine front
wine front
wine back
wine back
Frankie pointed out that the water is fresh
Frankie pointed out that the water is fresh

 

The goose was roasted and served with roasted chicory and both served with a  wonderful goose juice seasoned with orange.  The goose was cooked nicely pink and the Belgium endive, or chicory, was braised to complete tenderness.  The tasty goose was very nice and really “roasty” tasting and the delicious sauce really brought out the flavor.  They were nice enough to leave the rest of the sauce at the table which I was glad to partake of.  Another good one.

Roast goose and chicory
Roast goose and chicory
closer
closer
goose closer
goose closer
chicory
chicory closer
goose from the top
from the top
Frankie sniffed the sauce
Frankie sniffed the sauce

 

We opted for the optional cheese course which was a mild cow’s milk cheese with a soft center.  It was very nice.

cheese
cheese
from the top
from the top
other side
other side
Frankie liked the way they piled the flatware
Frankie liked the way they piled the flatware

 

Toffee was caramel sorbet mixed with yuzu and chestnut creams and topped with caramelized cocoa nibs.  It was like a creamy caramel corn with crispy chocolate.  It was sweet and wonderful.

Toffee
toffee
closer
closer
geting into
getting into it
inside
inside
inside
inside
Frankie played on the towels
Frankie played on the towels

 

A pumpkin cream was served with a bergamot mousse and tonka bean ice cream.  The pumpkin mousse was smooth, creamy and sweet but not too much so.  Some crispy bits  topped the slightly tart foam.   Really good ice cream completed this very nice dish.  Yum.

pumpkin
pumpkin
other side
other side
closer
closer
IMG_1306
closer
IMG_1352
peek in the kitchen
peek in kitchen
peek in the kitchen
Frankie and partner
Sommelier and partner Alex Céret and Frankie
Chef and Frankie
Chef Daniel Baratier and Frankie

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