Purepecha Room in the Revolver Taco Lounge, Dallas, 3/7/18

building
building

The Purepecha Room is a small room for about 14 in the back of Revolver Taco Lounge.  Opened in April 2017 it is run by Chef Regino Rojas who was a 2018 James Beard Award Semifinalist.  It is meant to resemble his mother’s kitchen and recipes he ate growing up.  Indeed, his mother, Juanita Rojas, is in the kitchen still helping as is his aunt and I understand his father was helping inside the kitchen.  This is a family operation and it feels like that as you sit in the cozy room with dishes that feel like your grandmothers and the chef cooking close enough you really feel like you’re in his dining room.  A totally different ambiance than in the noisy, casual front Taco Lounge.  They offer a tasting menu only and there is no printed menu, however you can let them know about allergies.  Service is efficient, friendly and paced on the quicker end of  the continuum.  

Frankie posed on the sign on the street
Frankie posed on the sign on the street

They have 2 seatings in an evening and we were in the earlier one that was running about 40 minutes late.  It would have been disturbing except for the Paloma cocktail, fixed by Victor who would also be our waiter in the back room.  The drink  was a fun combination of tequila, lime, grapefruit, salt, orange and decorated with a tamarind coated straw.

Frankie and the Paloma cocktail
Frankie and the Paloma cocktail
Taco Lounge counter
Taco Lounge counter
sign on the wall
sign on wall in front
water in the Taco Lounge
water in the Taco Lounge
Frankie explored
Frankie explored

 

We started with a sashimi grade founder that was served with smoked eggs, chilies, blue lava salt and a tangerine olive oil.   It was really good.  Something in it had a bit of crunch which gave a small textural contrast to the pleasant flavors.

sign outside the door
sign outside the door
Frankie met Princess Leia
Frankie met Princess Leia on the way in the door
interior
interior
table set up
table set up
Chef setting up
Chef setting up
Flounder sashimi
Flounder sashimi
from the side
from the side
Frankie checked out some of the decorations
Frankie checked out some of the decorations

 

Beef tartar with citrus oils and spices followed.  The tartar was prepared ceviche style and was tender and tasty.  It was served with a chip that seemed almost air-fried.  It was a delicious addition to the perfectly seasoned bite.

Beef tartar
Beef tartar
closer
closer
other side
other side
wine
wine
Frankie posed in one of the hanging bowls
Frankie posed in one of the hanging bowls

 

Sopa Seca was a traditional Mexican casserole.  In this case the dry ingredients (avocado, chicken, queso fresco, tortilla chips) came out first and then were covered with rich chicken broth.  After the broth is added you stir it around to blend the ingredients.  Some of the strips retained their crunch and the chicken stayed nicely moist.  It was excellent.

Presentation of Sopa Seca
Presentation of Sopa Seca
closer
closer
ladling out the broth tableside
ladling out the broth tableside
Sopa Seca with broth
Sopa Seca with broth
closer
closer
Frankie's a spicy cat
Frankie’s a spicy cat

 

Sofrito, a Spanish meat sauce, was served in a tortilla cavity.  The picadillo meat was mixed with escargo, queso fresco and topped with a dried grasshopper.  This dish had milder flavors but wonderful textures and was a good combination.

Sofrito in tortilla
Sofrito in tortilla
from the top
from the top
closer
closer
dried grasshopper
dried grasshopper
Frankie stalked the grasshopper
Frankie stalked the grasshopper
from the side
from the side

 

Mole was the next course and it started with a seasoned rice accented with raw banana bits.  I really liked the way it blended with the rice.  On top of the mole was a grilled piece of octopus, seeds, nuts and some greens infused with roasted peppers.  Along with this were hot fresh corn tortillas (made by chef’s aunt)  to eat with the dishes.  It was a lovely combination with lots of flavors and textures.

rice and bananas
rice and bananas
closer
closer
Frankie sniffed the hot tortillas
Frankie sniffed the hot tortillas
tortillas
tortillas
Octopus and molé
Octopus and mole
closer
closer
another angle
another angle
Frankie found an orchid
Frankie loves to find flowers

 

A second mole was called red and no chocolate was used to sweeten it.  It was a blend of toasted peppers and other ingredients that were topped with a slice of roasted Hudson Valley duck.  The duck was cooked nicely rare and was tender.  Some seeds on the top gave it another dimension of taste and texture.  This mole was made by the chef’s mother.

Hudson Valley duck and red molé
Hudson Valley duck and red mole
closer
closer
another angle
another angle
working together
working together
Frankie watched the kitchen action
Frankie watched the kitchen action

 

Carne asada made with beef tenderloin was the last savory.  It was served with a tamale made with no meat, tortilla made like a Tuscan pasta and a small quesadilla with squash blossom.   The tamale was covered with a spicy sauce and some queso fresco and had really good flavor – one you kept wanting to come back and take one more bite of.  The beef was quite tender and had a fairly spicy sauce, but the texture was a bit mealy for me.  The “pasta” was infused with mint and quite nice.  The quesadilla almost tasted like something you might have had in a Mexican restaurant but the tortilla was ultimately tender and it was stuffed with cheese.

Carne asada, quesadilla, tamale
Carne asada, chanterelles, quesadilla, “pasta”, tamale
meat closer
meat and chanterelles closer
tamale
tamale
inside
inside
closer pasta
closer pasta
closer quesadilla
quesadilla
Frankie looked over the leftovers
Frankie looked over the leftovers

 

Dessert was 3 items on one plate.  One was a Mexican cheesecake that was made without cream cheese and instead used queso fresco and then was covered with cranberry sauce.  It was heartier than the usual cheesecake and not as smooth but I really liked the cranberry sauce.  Some pieces of cotija cheese (a hard cow’s milk cheese from Mexico) were in the middle of the plate.  They were dry and had the fun crystals of an aged hard cheese.  The last portion was a flan which was tasty.

Mexican cheesecake, cotija cheese, flan
Mexican cheesecake, cotija cheese, flan
from the side
from the side
cheesecake
cheesecake
Frankie's going for the cheese
Frankie’s going for the cheese
Chef's mother, Juanita Rojas and Frankie
Chef’s mother, Juanita Rojas and Frankie
Chef Regino Rojas and Frankie
Chef Regino Rojas and Frankie

 

3 thoughts on “Purepecha Room in the Revolver Taco Lounge, Dallas, 3/7/18

  1. You are such a gourmet eater….it looks so wonderful. I thank that Frankie is just adorable. I love how she gets around. The pictures of the chef and his mother with Frankie are just perfect. Thanks for dinner! lol

    Liked by 1 person

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