The Restaurant at The Dolder Grand Hotel, Zürich, 6/1/18

dining room
dining room

The Restaurant has two Michelin stars and is in the elegant Dolder Grand Hotel.  The hotel was built in the late 1800’s and has been visited by many celebrities.  In 2004 it was closed for 4 years and completely renovated to restore and expand the structure.  It is accessible by car or you can ride the Dolderbahn up the hill to it.  The dining room is separated from the bar area by a floor to ceiling climate controlled wine storage unit.  The ceiling dated to 1899 and huge lighting structures hung from it.  Tables are nicely spaced and draped with nice white clothes and set with large rectangle napkins.  Some of the tables had a center circle of light which was an odd touch, not troublesome but striking.  There is faint background music.   They offer two tasting menus, one vegetarian, of 6 or 10 courses.  Wine pairings are available for each option.  The portion control of the menu was good but the pacing lagged in the second half of the menu.  

hotel
hotel
hotel
hotel
hotel
hotel
hotel
hotel
dining room
dining room
table set up
table set up
Frankie was fascinated by the circle of light on the table
Frankie was fascinated by the circle of light on the table
ceiling
ceiling
ceiling
ceiling and lights
sculptures
sculptures
menu cover
menu cover
tasting menu
tasting menu
Vegetarian menu
vegetarian menu

 

Right after you’re seated and a drink order is placed they brought a wet cloth to freshen your hands.  While you look over the options, snacks began to appear.  Lychee with cornichon, tarragon and wasabi was served in a half spoon and the wasabi was the dominant flavor.  Rancho-Cornet was spicy and crispy.  Pommes Soufflée with BBQ sauce was a completely hollow potato that tasted like barbecue potato dip.  Pecan nut with tandoori masala, dates and tamarind had a nice strong pecan flavor and was crispy and nutty.  Radish with blossoms and herbs were tart and pickled.  Sandwich with cream cheese and herbs were in rolls with a mild and herby taste.  White fungus with Sancho Pepper was solid and crispy with little flavor.  All were good.  I particularly liked how they had a small sign on the table with the ingredients of the snacks.  Sometimes when the staff present a bunch with lots of ingredients it is hard to keep track and this made it very easy.

wet cloth
wet cloth
champagne
champagne
Frankie swooned over the champagne
Frankie swooned over the champagne
about the snacks
about the snacks
beginning snacks
beginning snacks
closer
Rancho-Cornet
closer
Pean nut with tandoori masala, dates and tamarind
closer
Pommes Soufflée with BBQ Sauce
closer
Lychee with cornichon, tarragon and wasabi / White Fungus with Sancho Pepper
closer
Sandwich with cream cheese and herbs / Radish with blossoms and herbs
Frankie tried to choose
Frankie tried to choose

 

Bread was a small individual loaf and served with both garlic and regular butters.  The bread was dense with a very seedy crust.

bread and butters
bread and butters
bread
bread
butters
butters
inside
inside

 

One more amuse was a buttermilk foam with licorice, orange and fish eggs.  The licorice and eggs were a very nice combination of flavors and the foam was sweet and creamy.

xxx
buttermilk foam with licorice, orange and fish eggs
closer
closer
wine
wine
wine front
wine front
wine back
wine back
wine side
wine side
Frankie and xxx
Frankie and the water glasses

 

Lobster with strawberry, beet root, tarragon and mustard was filled with strong flavors.  The lobster was nicely chewy and everything here really blended together well.

Lobster with strawberry, beet rooot, tarragon and mustard
Lobster with strawberry, beet root, tarragon and mustard
closer
closer
detail
detail

 

White asparagus was plated with egg, cress and caviar.  The caviar blended nicely with the egg yolk sauce and some of the white asparagus was shredded which also worked beautifully with the sauce.  This was a very good combination.

White asparagus with egg, cress and caviar
White asparagus with egg, cress and caviar
closer
closer
Frankie found more flowers
Frankie found more flowers

 

Hake with rhubarb juice, Piment d’Espelette, ginger, sorrel and vanilla was next.  It was nice.  The big flake fish worked well with the sweetened rhubarb sauce.  It made an interesting combination of strong flavors.  It was a winner.

Hake with rhubarb juice, Piment d'Espelette, ginger, sorrell and vanilla
Hake with rhubarb juice, Piment d’Espelette, ginger, sorrell and vanilla
closer
closer

 

Rabbit with meadow herbs, miso, pickled mushrooms and green tomato .  The rabbit was in tartar form and was moist and tender.  The texture was quite nice and it didn’t leave any flour essence on the tongue.  The herbs and tomatoes mixed with the rabbit worked well.  It was very good.

Rabbit with meadow herbs, miso, pickled mushrooms, green tomato
Rabbit with meadow herbs, miso, pickled mushrooms, green tomato
closer
closer
from the end
from the end
other side
other side
Frankie found some interesting flowers
Frankie found some interesting flowers

 

 

Char with rape and camomile was in a broth of spring vegetables.   The char was amazing – cooked to perfection.  It was tender and bursting with flavor.  The sauce worked wonderfully and some trout eggs in it popped in your mouth.   The “rapes” were seeds of brassica.  It worked.

Char with rape and camomile
Char with rape and camomile
closer
closer
from the side
from the side

 

Crab and goose liver with mango, sea weed and Vadouvan was semi solid layer on the bottom of a shallow bowl.  The mango and caviar was a surprising combination but it worked.  The sweet set off the salty.  It was a nice mix of fresh flavors but the goose liver essence was lost in the mix.  It was salad like and nice.

Crab and goose liver with mango, sea weed and Vadovan
Crab and goose liver with mango, sea weed and Vadovan
closer
closer
Frankie looked it over
Frankie looked it over
inside
inside
cheese cart
cheese cart

 

Veal with chanterelles, Emmentaler, chervil, lettuce and horseradish had tender meat but unfortunately it was dry.  The sauce was tasty but it felt like too many things on this plate.

Veal with chanterelles, Emmentaler, chervil, lettuce and horseradish
Veal with chanterelles, Emmentaler, chervil, lettuce and horseradish
closer
closer
inside
inside
awards
awards
art
art

 

Wagyu with dried fruits, honey, chili, mint and cinnamon tasted a lot like barbecue except for the dry and mealy meat.  The sauce was great.  It was served with a cup of potato foam with crispy bits on top.  It was good and highly whipped.

Wagyu with dried fruits, chili, mint and cinammon
Wagyu with dried fruits, chili, mint and cinammon
closer
closer
underneath
underneath
xxx
potatoes
closer
closer
Frankie posed with the art
Frankie posed with the art

 

Nespola (loquat) with white chocolate, lemon-verveine and balsamic was nespola sorbet on a white chocolate mousse.  It was smooth and creamy with the leaves adding an herby element.

Nespola with white chocolate, lemon-verveine and balsamic
Nespola with white chocolate, lemon-verveine and balsamic
closer
closer
inside
inside
Stairs to the bathrooms
Stairs to the bathrooms

 

Celery with basil, woodruff and Campari was celery ice cream plated with lots of crunchy elements and a hint of bitterness in something.  It was more like a salad than a dessert but I did enjoy the crispy sheets of celery.  It was full of herby flavors but overall would only rate an okay.

closer
closer
Frankie wondered about this machine
Frankie wondered about this machine

 

Final treats were pistachio with papaya, matcha and Umeboshi which were dark and dull; Strawberry cheesecake with basil which was good; “Oreo” ; Sticky rice with coconut and fruits – raspberries – was not too good; Citrus “Maom” which were chewy; Carrot juices with sweet mustard and cress which was crisp and sweet; Chai latte which had a liquid center.

last treats
last treats
Strawberry cheesecake with basil/ "Oreo"
Sticky rice with coconut and fruits / “Oreo”
closer
Chai latte
closer
Citrus Maoam
closer
Carrot juices with sweet mustard and cress / Strawberry cheesecake with basil
closer
pistachio with papaya, matcha and Umeboshi
Chef Heiko Nieder and Frankie
Chef Heiko Nieder and Frankie

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