Restaurant Schwarzwaldstube, Baiersbronn, 9/26/18

building
building

Restaurant Schwarzwaldstube is a 3 star Michelin restaurant in the Traube Tonbach hotel in the Black Forest of Germany.  It can be reached by car or train from Frankfurt. The hotel has been in the same family for 9 generations and the current owner made the rounds of the room during meal service.  His great, great grandfather had been a baker in the restaurant.  The room has windows with granite counters below that look at the beautiful scenery outside, a deeply recessed wood ceiling, plush carpet,  12 white clothed widely spaced large tables set with gray-brown napkins had little chandeliers on the side, nice padded chairs and faint background music. The excellent service is provided by formally dressed males and females in traditional clothing. Head chef Torsten Michel took over in 2017, having started there in 2004, and he changes the menu every 7 weeks and offers a la carte as well as 3 tasting menus, one being vegetarian and the others, long and short versions of the degustation menu.  We chose the longer of the degustation menu with one substitution on the first course where I had a tuna dish instead of the mackerel on the menu.  

lobby
lobby
sitting area
sitting area
interior
interior
interior
interior
interior
interior
some wood work
some of the wood work
table set up
table set up
Frankie and the table centerpiece
Frankie and the table centerpiece
menu
menu
tasting menus
tasting menus

 

With our champagne we were served an array of snacks.  A lobster ball fried in panko crumbs was adorned with a pineapple and mango chutney.  It was delicious.  A tartar of veal was seasoned with an herbal vinegar and mustard.  It was a coarsely hand-chopped tartar that was simple and yet exquisite.  A poached squid was alongside a saffron aioli on a dark rice chip.  It was a perfect balance of flavors and textures.

beginning champagne
beginning champagne
snacks
snacks
closer
closer
closer
closer
closer
closer
Frankie took in the view
Frankie took in the view

 

The next amuse bouche was a wild white salmon on creamed horseradish with lime and topped with a cracker, smoked salmon caviar and avocado cream.  It was amazing.  The lovely cream contrasted wonderfully with the crisp thin cracker and all the tastes completely melded together to produce a flavor explosion of fun in your mouth.

amuse
amuse -wild white salmon on creamed horseradish with lime
closer
closer
another angle
another angle
without top
without top
Frankie found a basket of flowers
Frankie found a basket of flowers

 

They offered an array of breads to chose from – baguette, olive, rye, cereal.  Unlike when they started the bread dough is brought in from elsewhere but the baking is still done in house.   They offered a choice of butter or olive oil.  We chose butter with salt.

bread selection
bread selection
breads
choices
butter
butter
wine
wine
wine back
wine back
wine
wine
Frankie looked over the menu brought to the table
Frankie looked over the menu brought to the table

 

Marinated yellow fin- and wooden mackerel was plated with garden cucumber, miso creme and ginger, wasabi foam and shoyu marinade.  The piece of mackerel on the top was from the Atlantic and had stronger flavor whereas the yellow fin piece from the Pacific was below and more mildly flavored.  All the parts blended nicely for a wonderful dish.

mackerel
Marinated yellow fin and wooden mackerel with garden cucumber, miso, creme and ginger, wasabi foam and shoyu marinade
mackerel
closer
Frankie and a table light
Frankie and a table light

As I’m not a mackerel fan the waiter suggested substituting the Pickled tuna “Kishu” with duck barnacles and razor clams, miso and young seaweed, shiitakes and ginger, and wasabi foam.  It was an excellent choice.  The Kishu tuna was from Japan, marinated then topped with dried skin of tuna.  It was a belly cut and rolled.  The miso cream were small dots on the plate and in the center was  a cucumber and wasabi foam.  The back filet of tuna was the bottom piece and it also was topped with bonita flakes.  They get their tuna fresh everyday.

tuna
Pickled tuna “Kishu” with duck barnacles and razor clams, miso and young seaweed, shiitakes and ginger, wasabi foam
closer
closer
side view
side view
unstacked
unstacked
owner
Owner Heiner Finkbeiner (whose family has owned and operated the Traube Tonbach for over  225 years)
owner visits with guests
owner visits with all the guests
Frankie studied the cork stand
Frankie studied the cork stand

 

Gently roasted duckliver was with tossed artichokes, artichoke chips and reduced poultry jus with truffle.  The liver had been poached and then pan fried and topped with crisp artichoke chips and then at the table it was surrounded with duck jus with truffle.  It was excellent.  The liver and artichoke pieces both really were filled with flavor.  A creamed purée formed a ring around the plate that blended in with the sauce.  All the components in the dish were great alone and also wonderful mixed together.  They left additional sauce on the table.  Each part was so good I hated to dilute them by mixing cause I wanted to savor their individual flavors.  Really outstanding.

duckliver presentation
presentation
with sauce
Gently roasted duckliver with tossed artichokes, artichoke chips and reduced poultry jus with truffle
closer
closer
other side
other side
inside
inside
Frankie posed with the deer candle holder
Frankie posed with the deer candle holder

 

Filled squid, scallops and seafood were plated with steamed spinach, and light saffron brew with tarragon.   The saffron was Swiss and mixed with watercress, tarragon and shallots to form an amazing sauce for the various bits of shellfish.   Prawns, scallops and tarragon made up the filling for the squid.  It was delicious.  The prawns in the dish were amazing and the stuffing excellent.  The sauce was exquisite and they were nice enough to come around with more.  It was really yummy.

presentation
presentation
seafood
Filled squid, scallops and seafood with steamed spinach, light saffron brew with tarragon
turned a little
turned a little
closer
closer
turned
turned
more
more
Frankie had the restaurant details
Frankie shared the restaurant details

 

Next was a duo of pommerian beef with slightly smoked bone marrow, mash of parsley, young shallots and meat juice with Barolo vinegar.  The beef was from the border region of Germany and Poland, on a Polish farm where they have done business for 12 years.  It was the Entrecote cut that had been pan fried and marinated with lime and herb barbecue sauce.  A square of short  rib, well cooked, meat was also on the plate and it was topped with the smokey bone marrow.  Spring onions, beef jus and parsley root purée rounded out the plate.  The sauce was once again exquisite and really made the plate sing.  Another wonderful plate of food.

beef
Duo of pommerian beef with slightly smoked bone marrow, mash of parsley, young shallots and meat juice with Barolo vinegar
closer
closer
Frankie checked for leftovers
Frankie checked for leftovers

 

Cheese from the trolley was part of the meal and all the cheeses they served were from France.  It was a huge selection of cow, goat and sheep varieties.  You could pick as you wanted.  A special array of breads were also offered including sour dough, raisin nut, baguette and chiobtta.  All were very good.  The server was willing to pick a selection for me based on some of my previous likes.  It was good selection but the blue cheese was the best to me.

cheese cart
Cheese trolley
Frankie checked it out
Frankie checked it out
selections
selections
another plate
another plate
bread with cheese
breads with cheese
selections
selections
Frankie looked over the model of the hotel
Frankie looked over the model of the old hotel

 

Mousseline of Genepi liquor with sour cherry ice cream and fir resin flavor, apple pearls and grog of mugwort and cardamom was the first dessert.  This was a lesser offering  with the flavors not blending particularly well.  Maybe there were just too many flavors for them to meld into a cohesive item.

Frankie inspected the dessert napkin
Frankie inspected the dessert napkin
mousseline
Mousseline of Genepi liquor with sour cherry ice cream and fir resin flavour, apple pearls and grog of mugwort and cardamom
closer
closer
Frankie sniffed
Frankie sniffed it

 

The second dessert was Croustillant and sorbet of vineyard peach with honey crisp, almond foam, pearls of red wine herb reduction and spekulatius sand.  It was explained to be peach in various forms and the peach was good but the sorbet struck me as repititive of the previous course.  The almond foam tasted more like chestnut paste.  It was a little better than the first dessert but overall the sweet section couldn’t measure up to the savory section of the menu.

IMG_2361
Croustillant and sorbet of vineyard peach with honey crisp, almond foam, pearls of red wine herb reduction and spekulatius sand
other side
other side
closer
closer
turned
turned
Frankie found a plant
Frankie found a plant
Chef works the room
Chef works the room
dessert beverage
dessert beverage
Waitress and Frankie
Nice server Helena and Frankie

 

The dessert trolley is the final offering and it was filled with tasty looking options.  None really stood out to me but they did provide a suitable final sweet ending for a really wonderful meal.

treat trolley
treat trolley
extra treats
extra treats
selections
selections
selections
selections
personalized candy
personalized candy
stairs to bathroom
stairs to the bathroom
Frankie explored the bathroom
Frankie explored the bathroom
wine table
wine table
interior filled
interior filled
Michelin sign
Michelin sign
Frankie posed in a window
Frankie posed in a window
bar out side the dining room
bar outside the dining room
Chef Torsten Michel and Frankie
Chef Torsten Michel and Frankie

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