Restaurant Lafleur, Frankfurt, 9/28/18

building
building

Restaurant Lafleur is a 2 star Michelin place located in the southern edge of the Palmengarten.  It is a medium sized place with about 14 tables, a combination of rounded booths and free standing tables, all with white tableclothes on top of floor length beige ones.  There was some background music but the noise level was good even though the tables were fairly closely spaced on a wood floor.  A lowered ceiling probably helped.  Windows to the outside lined one wall and a semi-circle of them made up the end of the space.  Some modern art was on the walls and a few interesting sculptures were in the deep windowsills.  They offered an a la carte menu as well as two tasting options of various numbers of courses.  In 2014 the chef offered a totally vegan tasting menu, the first Michelin starred chef to offer one.  We chose the 7 course Degustation Menu.  Service was helpful, fun and friendly but the food was mixed in quality.  Pacing of the meal started nicely but then slowed to a crawl and stayed really slow.  

building
building
restauratn
restaurant
neon sign
neon sign
entrance
entrance
interior
interior
interior
interior
interior
interior
table set up
table set up
Frankie enjoyed some champagne
Frankie enjoyed some champagne
menu cover
menu cover
tasting menu
tasting menu
tasting menu
tasting menu 2
a la carte menu
a la carte menu
dessert and cheese
dessert and cheese

 

Two amuse bouche started our menu, a shot of fennel and garden herbs with bell pepper-apple wine foam and a baked praline of fine fish with coriander mayonnaise.    The fish was warm and tasty and the fennel shot very good.

amuse
Baked praline of fine fish with coriander mayonnaise / shot of fennel and garden herbs with bell pepper-apple wine foam
from the top
from the top
inside
inside
Frankie and the table flower
Frankie and the table flower

 

Two breads were placed at each table along with unsalted and salted butters.  One bread was white and the other a traditional dark variety with cumin, rye and fennel.  Both were dense with a doughy interior and a good crisp on the crust.  Both butters were slightly softened but not whipped and quite nice.

bread and butter
bread and butters
inside bread
inside light bread
inside dark bread
inside dark bread
olive oil front
olive oil front
olive oil back
olive oil back
Frankie liked the butter decoration
Frankie liked the butter decoration

 

The next amuse was ginger and soy marinated hamachi tartar with pak choi-alga salad and fruity ice cream of curry.  All the parts went together well and yielded lots of flavor.  It was also a good mix of textures and temperatures – a great start.

amuse
Amuse: In ginger and soy marinated hamachi, hamachi tartar, pak choi-alga salad and fruity ice cream of curry
closer
closer
wine
wine
wine
wine front
wine back
wine back

 

Tartar of Vogelsberger Wagyu, piquillo jelly, ice cream of anchovies and goose liver, Ossitre Imperial caviar, radishes, cream of mustard and relish of cucumbers.   It was tender, flavorful and the goose liver in the ice cream went great with the anchovy.  Little bits of stuff ringed the tartar and all blended nicely.  A crisp chip, which was a slice of focaccia, was inserted in the ice cream which added a nice bit of texture and the caviar added a little pop to the plate.  A success.

next
Tartar of Vogelsberger Wagyu, piquillo jelly, ice cream of anchovies and goose liver. Ossitre Imperial caviar, radishes, cream of mustard and relish of cucumber
clsoer
closer
Frankie found a hiding place
Frankie found a hiding place

 

Hand-dived roasted Scottish scallop with almond crunch, mussel gravy, cauliflower, almond crunch, Amalfi lemon confit and salty fingers was a good one.  The scallop was tender and nicely coated with almond crunch.  It was a nice set of flavors that blended well but there wasn’t much textural contrast on the plate.  The scallop was cooked perfectly and a good sweet.

scallop
Hand-dived, roasted Scottish scallop with almond crunch, mussel gravy, cauliflower, almond crunch, Amalfi lemon contit and salty fingers
closer
closer
inside
inside
Frankie found flowers
Frankie found flowers

 

Mackerel and cliffs octopus, mediterranean fish gravy with smoked bell pepper, aubergine with nori, fennel and creme of white beans was okay.  The mackerel was velvety in texure but the octopus was dull.  The eggplant was a strange combination with the seaweed – it made the eggplant taste fishy which I didn’t care for.  The beans and fennel were good but overall this plate seemed to have 2 diametrically opposed portions that didn’t compliment each other at all, but at least they didn’t totally clash.

mackerel
Mackerel and cliffs octopus, mediterranean fish gravy with smoked bell pepper, aubergine with nori, fennel and creme of white beans
closer
closer
Frankie lounged on the purse stool
Frankie lounged on the purse stool

 

Ochsenschläger’s free range chicken as roasted breast, raviolo and egg yolk, lemon-thyme poultry velouté, cabbage with porcini and pumpkin was next.  The raviolo stuffed with heart, liver and wing meat was okay but the breast meat was tough.  The pumpkin and porcini were nice and the egg yolks on the plate were cooked to a fudgy consistency.  Again micro greens decorated the plate, which felt overused.  This one was not exciting but better than the next.

chicken
Ochsenschlager’s free-range chicken as roasted breast, raviolo and egg yolk, lemon-thyme poultry veloute, cabbage with porcini and pumpkin
closer
closer
turned around
turned around
egg broken
yolk broken
Frankie found a differernt arrangement
Frankie found a different arrangement

 

Roasted saddle of venison with herb crust, venison gravy flavored with currant bush, tartar of turnips and rapeseeds, chicory chutney, coulis of lamb’s lettuce, wild cranberries and book mushroom was the last savory course.  They left the extra sauce, which was fruity, on the table which was a nice gesture.  However it could not save the mushy and dry venison meat.  It  was inedible.  The cranberry compote was good but I didn’t care for the taste of the lettuce coulis and the mushrooms had no flavor.  This was not a good course. and went back mostly uneaten.

venison
Roasted saddle of venison with herb crust, venison gravy flavored with currant bush, tartar of turnips with rapeseeds, chicory chutney, coulis of lamb’s lettuce, wild cranberries and book mushroom
closer
closer
sauce
sauce
venison
venison broth
closer
closer
Frankie posed with one of the old menu boards
Frankie posed with one of the old menu boards

 

The selection of matured raw milk cheese from Maître Bernard Antony came plated, there was no trolley.  The cheese was accompanied by a spicy fig mustard and a selection of breads.  It was fine.

cheese
cheese coures
closer
closer
breads
breads
Frankie rested on the hand towels
Frankie rested on the hand towels

 

A cantaloupe espuma was the transition course to dessert.  It was cool and refreshing with lots of soft chunks of sweet fruit inside.  There was something in it that added a hint of bitterness, but it worked.  It was very good.

transition
cantaloupe transition course
closer
closer
from the side
from the side
stirred
stirred
Frankie looked out the window
Frankie looked out the window

 

Delicacies of berries, sour cream with Tahitian vanilla and elderflower, sorrel gel and ice cream of herbs and pistachio was the dessert.  It was a nice compilation of crisp and soft textures as well as sweet flavors.  Some of the green goo around the edges was too pasty and the berries were not ripe enough to blend well and add the punch they should have.  Maybe it was too many things but it didn’t work for me.

berries
Delicacies of berries, sour cream with Tahitian vanilla and elderflower, sorrel gel and ice cream of herbs and pistachio
closer
closer
Frankie checked it out
Frankie checked it out

 

Final treats were an almond amaretto praline, lemon tart, raspberry praline and a canele.  They were all unremarkable.

Frankie and the final treats
Frankie and the final treats
final treats
almond amaretto, lemon tart, raspberry, canelé
another angle
another angle
closer
closer
inside
inside
closer
closer
inside
inside
inside
inside
art
art
wine cellar
wine cellar
Frankie found some colorful flowers
Frankie found some colorful flowers

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