Square Root, New Orleans, 12/18/15

Exterior
Exterior

Located in the Garden District, a short cab ride from the Quarter, is something new for New Orleans- a counter seating with only a tasting for about 20 people. The menu changes regularly and they will work to accommodate allergies or preferences, like they did for the vegetarian that was there the night we were.  They have a small wine list and offer pairings for the courses.  It is about 15 courses of small bites all prepared in the kitchen in the room.

interior
interior
kitchen
kitchen
kitchen
kitchen
Frankie checked out the layout
Frankie checked out the layout

I got a corner seat and so had a ringside view of all as well as lots of time to chat with the chefs and service personnel. Everyone was extremely friendly and determined to see the customers enjoy their experience and it worked for me!

Bar set up
Bar set up
cool fork rest
cool fork rest
wine
sparkler
Chef Jason Byo
Chef Jason Byo
Chef Brad Henley
Chef Brad Henley
Frankie watched preparations
Frankie watched preparations

 

We started with a sous vide oyster covered with a powder of oyster liquor and horseradish. Good oyster taste with a nice hint of horseradish.

Wianno oyster with dill, honey, vinegar and horseradish
Wianno oyster with dill, honey, vinegar and horseradish

 

The turnips were from their garden and were buttery with a nice chew.

turniop with yogurt and whey
turnip with yogurt and whey

 

The miniature muffalatta was a little spicy and filled with flavor.  A very tasty bite!

Muffaletta with 'Nduja, Facc bacon, olive salad, Grana Padano
Muffaletta with ‘Nduja, Facc bacon, olive salad, Grana Padano

 

The southern picnic was covered with cotton candy made of chicken and underneath were bits of chicken mousse and skin crackers. It was a less flavorful offering but the interesting textures made up for it.

pulling cotton candy
pulling cotton candy
Southern picnic: fried chicken, watermelon rind and mustard
Southern picnic: fried chicken, watermelon rind and mustard
under the cotton candy
under the cotton candy

 

Under the sturgeon  was a scallion cream cheese and served beside were radish, Meyer lemon and beets(rolls).  A very interesting combination and again not intense tastes but perfectly acceptable.

Smoked Sturgeon with creme fraiche, Meyer lemon, and scallion
Smoked Sturgeon with creme fraiche, Meyer lemon, and scallion

 

The venison tartar was served with pickled elderberry (green) and the Black trumpet mushrooms were served crispy. Also included were wasabi arugula and aioli with tarragon. I loved the crunch and the meat was velvety making a combination that really works.

Fun being so close to the action
Fun being so close to the action
Black trumpet with raw venison, elderberry and arugula
Black trumpet with raw venison, elderberry and arugula
close up
close up

 

The foie gras was served with rose hip jam and apple fruit leather. The black dots are black sesame cake batter that is baked and then dehydrated. This was excellent, a real bowl licker!

Foie Gras with textures of apple, rose hip and black sesame
Foie Gras with textures of apple, rose hip and black sesame
close up
close up

 

The sorrel was in the form of a frozen glee and the apple was a mousse. There was a spongey texture and a fairly mild taste but the little fruit had a touch of salt that brought it all together.

Garden sorrel with oxalis and chartreuse
Garden sorrel with oxalis and chartreuse
clsoe up
close up
wine
wine
Frankie admires the wine
Frankie admires the wine

 

The Char was served with pureed carrots, escarole and sunflower seed paste. An interesting combination of tastes and but a tad to many soft textures however the strong tastes of the purees were a good counterbalance for the strong taste of the fish. ]

plated on "broken plates"
plated on “broken plates”
Arctic Char with onion, sunflower and carrot
Arctic Char with onion, sunflower and carrot

 

The wild boar was in 2 preparations – ham and braised neck. Served with black garlic cherry puree and a sauce of the bones and green garlic. Both preparations were outstanding.

Start of wild boar
Start of wild boar
Wild boar with green garlic, Yacon and mustards
Wild boar with green garlic, Yacon and mustards

 

The duck had a honey glaze and was served with persimmon, satsuma and a slice of the heart. The sauce was a made of giblets, confit gizzard and liver bits. The duck was tender and flavorful and the various components blended well. Another winner!

Chefs Jason Byo and Brad Henley work well together
Chefs Jason Byo and Brad Henley work well together
rohan duck with persimmon, satsuma and trimmings
Rohan duck with persimmon, satsuma and trimmings
close up
close up
Frankie thought that hit the spot
Frankie thought that hit the spot

 

The sticky bun was more a duck fat brioche with duck confit inside and you could use it to mop up the remaining gravy of the previous course. Very rich and a great texture – this was a perfect finish.

Sticky bun with duck confit
Sticky bun with duck confit
inside
inside

 

The Christmas course had pine gel, pine nuts, meringue and honestly tasted like a Christmas tree smells. No one element stood out but they all combined to really give you a pleasant taste of Christmas.

Christmas: Fraser fur, Blood orange, spiced cocoa and orange blossom
Christmas: Fraser fir, Blood orange, spiced cocoa and orange blossom
close up
close up

 

The squash mousse or the curry ice cream had a little spice and combined with the candied pecans it did give you the taste of pumpkin spice. A fun course.

Sweet dumpling squash with curry, pecans, raisins and Poirier's cane syrup
Sweet dumpling squash with curry, pecans, raisins and Poirier’s cane syrup
Frankie wanted this one
Frankie wanted this one

 

More treats on the mignardises tray and they were all quite good but I’m a sucker for cannele  and this was a version I could have eaten many of!

Mignardises
Mignardises
mulled wine jelly; honey and almond nouget
mulled wine jelly; honey and almond nouget
Cannelle; dark chocolate and hazelnut truffle
Cannele; dark chocolate and hazelnut truffle

 

I must comment on the most unusual array of dishes they served the courses in. These were not things you can toss in a dishwasher rack and expect them to last and so I wanted to introduce their most capable handler of all things delicate and some of the other staff that made the visit so enjoyable.

Bruce, the most competent dishwasher
Bruce, the most competent dishwasher
Wine and service helper
Alexandra Minton, Wine and service helper
Another of the friendly, fun staff
Another great service person

 

If that wasn’t enough food they had some good looking muffins to send home with you – surely not to eat that night as I was stuffed!

A little take away gift for the morning
A little take away gift for the morning
On the outside of the envelope with the menu
On the outside of the envelope with the menu

 

Frankie loved the bathroom supply of paper
Frankie loved the bathroom supply of paper
Frankie appreciated all the grooming aids they had at the ready
Frankie appreciated all the grooming aids they had at the ready

2 thoughts on “Square Root, New Orleans, 12/18/15

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