Gabriel Kreuther, New York City, 5/24/16

entry
entry

Gabriel Kreuther is a large bustling place with a design motif featuring the chef’s native Alsatian stork both in wallpaper and with a large Swarovski fixture  with dozens of the crystal storks hanging in formation (heading north to the place chef is from). They opened in June 2015 and offer 2 tasting menu options, one of 4 courses and the other a Chef’s Menu which they warn you will take about 3 hours.  They also have a Chef’s table, that is in the kitchen, but it needed 4 people to reserve it when we made our reservation but my understanding is that it now can be scheduled for just 2.

sign outside
sign outside
awards on the door
awards on the door

We opted for the longer tasting and ordered our own bottles of wine. The service was first rate and Chef KReuther did come out and meet his guests, in addition our excellent waiter Cody Nason answered our every question and made sure we had a good experience.  The menu for the evening was a surprise but afterwards they did give me a nice printout of what we had.

interior
interior
interior
interior
kitchen window
kitchen window
table set up
table set up
Menu 1
Menu 1
menu 2
menu 2

 

As soon as we ordered the first warm bread arrived and it was nice.

chive butter and warm bread
chive butter and warm bread
Frankie checked out the bread
Frankie checked out the bread
wine
wine

 

Next we had what the waiter called a “plate of drinks” which had two bites on the edge of the plate, an elevated portion as well as one beneath that elevated bite. The Sangria was okay, the Mojito very tasty, the Mezcal and Last Word were nice but none memorable except the Mojito.

"Sangria": pineapple espuma and white wine barbajuan
“Sangria”: pineapple espuma and white wine barbajuan
"Mojito": chicharrón and crystallized mint
“Mojito”: chicharrón and crystallized mint
"Mezcal": coffee cornbread and grapefruit marmalade
“Mezcal”: coffee cornbread and grapefruit marmalade
"The Last Word": chartreuse pate de fruit and hibiscus
“The Last Word”: chartreuse pate de fruit and hibiscus

 

The  Sturgeon Caviar was delicious and made a nice combination with the uni. The purple potato chips added a nice little crunch.

IMG_2539
Wild American Sturgeon Caviar with German butterball espuma and Santa Barbara uni
Frankie felt the strip than was the place for the flatware
Frankie felt the strip than was the place for the flatware

 

The pressed hamachi with foie gras and truffles all presented with nice strong tastes that blended very well. The utensils they set seemed strange but turned out to be a perfect fit for the dish. The waiter said this was his favorite course and I can see why as the it was a treat for the palate as well as the eyes.

Frankie thought they had different flatware
Frankie thought they had different flatware
Compressed Hamachi with black truffle, foie gras terrine and celery
Compressed Hamachi with black truffle, foie gras terrine and celery
as plated
as plated

 

The cured trout was really nice and served with another good blending of flavors and textures.  I really liked parma proscuitto and a crispy cracker that was mixed in. The peas were puréed to add something smooth. Very good.

Cured Tasmanian Ocean Trout with sweet peas, Parma prosciutto and dill
Cured Tasmanian Ocean Trout with sweet peas, Parma prosciutto and dill
Frankie checked out the salt and pepper containers
Frankie checked out the salt and pepper containers

 

Next was another warm bread selection that I liked better than the first one.

Wholegrain Ficelle and cultured butter
Wholegrain Ficelle and cultured butter
Chef works the room
Chef works the room

 

The cold white asparagus soup was blended with a puffed grain that gave it textural interest. It was not wowie-zowie course but it was nicely seasonal.

as presented
as presented
add broth
add broth
IMG_2620
Chilled Provence white asparagus soup with candied pumpkin seeds, white corn tuile and Comté custard
red  wine
red wine
Chef Gabriel Kreuther
Chef Gabriel Kreuther

 

The sweetbreads were cooked perfectly and were wonderful but I found their sauce to not be a good mix. Perhaps the pancetta added a bit too much sweetness.

presentation
presentation
Crispy sweetbreads roasted in duck fat with honshimeji, pancetta and pasilla
Crispy sweetbreads roasted in duck fat with honshimeji, pancetta and pasilla
as plated
as plated
Frankie loves sweetbreads
Frankie loves sweetbreads

 

The seabass was served with a chorizo aioli and bok choy and a lovely potato that had been cooked, squashed and then fried.  Again the sauce was so strong you only needed to use a pinch of it so as to not erase the mild taste of the fish, which was cooked perfectly with a wonderful tasty breading with a great crispness.

Hawaiin seabass with chorizo, crispy potato and almonds
Hawaiin seabass with chorizo, crispy potato and almonds
as plated
as plated
Frankie was knocked off balance by the different flatware
Frankie was knocked off balance by the different flatware

 

Another bread course and this time a pork lardo spread that had a little spiciness to it.

Rosemary buckwheat rolls
Rosemary buckwheat rolls
Whipped lardo with chili and garlic
Whipped lardo with chili and garlic
Frankie thought the bowl was just her size
Frankie thought the bowl was just her size

 

The lobster with ramps and fava beans was next and here the coconut sauce was perfect. A very good course.

Grilled Maine lobster with smoked potato, ramps and shellfish-coconut nage
Grilled Maine lobster with smoked potato, ramps and shellfish-coconut nage
as plated
as plated
Frankie watched the bar in the back
Frankie watched the bar in the back

 

The last savory course was Wagyu beef which was reported to be 100% pure with no cross breeding but it didn’t come off as succulent and juicy as some other Wagyu I’ve been lucky enough to devour. This one didn’t burst of fat and flavor and instead was dense and dull. The blue cheese served with the meat was quite good though.

IMG_2806
7X Colorado Wagyu beef strip loin with asparagus, cabrales blue and sunflower seeds
Stork wallpaper
Stork wallpaper
storks
storks
Frankie always finds the bathroom towels
Frankie always finds the bathroom towels
bar
bar
looking into the dining room from the hall between it and the bar
looking into the dining room from the hall between it and the bar

 

Our first dessert was apricot purée served with a great crispy oat cookie and a nice soft pistachio cookie. It was a tasty dish.  The chocolate decadence had a ball with meringue on the bottom and chocolate on top with a long thin crisp piece of caramel and chocolate ice cream.  It lived up to its name. The creme bruleé was not on our printed menu but was prepared tableside, shot from a whipped cream container onto a bit of jam and coconut cookie.  The crispy chips on the top gave it the feel of a cream bruleé. Lastly, another off the menu were some treats to just put you over the top. A fun way to end a nice meal.

Apricot marmalade with pistachio financier and lime-rosemary sorbet
Apricot marmalade with pistachio financier and lime-rosemary sorbet
IMG_2849
Decadent blackberry and chocolate with chocolate mousse, blackberry gelée and lemon verbena meringue
closer
closer
Frankie thought it was a nice fixture for the table candle
Frankie thought it was a nice fixture for the table candle
table side preparation
table side preparation
filling the cups
filling the cups
topping
topping
Creme bruleé with a coconut cookie inside and jam on the bottom
Creme bruleé with a coconut cookie inside and jam on the bottom
Passion fruit and caramel
Passion fruit and caramel
Frankie wanted to play with the cocoa pod
Frankie wanted to play with the cocoa pod
chocolate hazelnut sticks
chocolate hazelnut sticks
Nice parting gift, but Frankie thought it should be a catnip mouse
Nice parting gift, but Frankie thought it should be a catnip mouse
door handl
door handl
Chef Kreuther met Frankie
Chef Kreuther met Frankie

 

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