L’Arcane (update), Paris, 11/28/18

exterior
exterior

We visited L’Arcane for the first time about 18 months ago and they hadn’t been open long (opened June 2016).  On this re-visit pretty much every thing that bothered me about the place has been corrected and food remains outstanding.  Get it on your list as soon as you can.  The tables are still small but well spaced and the lighting is at a good level.  Soft music is in the background and some decorative changes, like wide planked wood floors and nice artwork, have been made that are all for the better.  They now have a well deserved one Michelin star rating.  Chef Laurent Magnin is now married to Sophie Keller who runs the front of the house.  They offer a tasting menu only with the option of 3, 4 or 5 different courses, but there are a couple of amuse bouche to add to it.  There is no printed menu.   Portion control was good and pacing on the slower side but nicely regular as opposed to having long gaps.

interior
interior
interior
interior
interior
interior
interior
interior
Frankie shared the restaurant details
Frankie shared the restaurant details
introduction
introduction
menu
menu
aperitifs
aperitifs menu
wine list cover
wine list cover
wine list
wine list
wine list 2
wine list 2
wine list 3
wine list 3
Frankie looked out the window
Frankie looked out the window

 

We started with a crispy cone filled with cinnamon, celery and smoked eel.  It was totally crispy and delicate with great flavor and texture.

amuse
amuse bouche of smoked eel
closer
closer
wine
wine
wine
wine

 

Bread is a box of small baguettes and slices of browner bread.  Both had soft and doughy insides with a good crisp crust.  The square box accompanying it was filled with tasty butter, which was hard to stop eating.

bread and butter
breads and butter
from the side
from the side
butter
butter

 

A vichyssoise, cold potato soup, was filled with potatoes, leeks, lots of herbs and fresh, sweet crab.  The crab was from Brittany and wonderful.  This dish was topped with a lacy crispy cracker that added a fun texture to the dish.   I actually think I liked it better eaten separately from the soup – both were so good I hated to blend the flavors.

scallop
vichyssoise with crab
underneath
underneath
top
lacy top
underneath
underneath
Frankie made a friend
Frankie made a friend

 

Roasted scallops were cooked perfectly and served in a champagne sauce alongside cauliflower on biscuit.  They were both fantastic and the sauce divine.

scallop
scallop and cauliflower
closer
closer
cauliflower
cauliflower
scallop
scallop
girl and Frankie
Sophie and Frankie

 

Brill was served with grilled butternut squash, Japanese lime and curry emulsion.  This was a yummy course.  The squash was topped with really tiny croutons that added a fun crunch to the cockles and Vernis (large fleshy clams  with red tongue) that were also on top. All the additions made the squash a dish in its own.  It wasn’t fishy but full of textures and flavors.  The fish was excellent, cooked perfectly and the curry sauce was spectacular.  All was really good mixed together or on its own.

fish
fish
closer
closer
turned
turned
squash cut
squash cut
Frankie and her new friend flanked the water
Frankie and her new friend flanked the water

 

Lobster carbonara was next.  The lobster was barely cooked and plated next to perfectly cooked pasta standing upright and all surrounded by another excellent sauce.  A hint of anise or fennel was in the dish and an intense shellfish flavor made the dish lick-the-plate great.

lobster carbonara
lobster carbonara
closer
closer
turned
turned
cut
cut
Michelin sign
Michelin sign

 

Two types of venison were served rare as well as long cooked alongside vegetables, red cabbage ravioli and spaetzle.  The spaetzle was light, crisped on the outside, tender on the inside and a star of the course.  The venison was various cuts from roe deer and all were lovely with nice sauces.  The many vegetable accompaniments were quite good too.  This was an amazing course – usually the protein course is a least favorite but this one sang.

venison
venison and vegetables and spaetzle
closer
closer
detail
detail
detail
detail
spatzel
spaetzle
detail
detail
Frankie wanted some
Frankie wanted some
inside
inside well cooked piece
inside
inside
inside
inside

 

Pear with bergamot sorbet was mixed with green cardamom sweet foam.  Small chunks of the sweet fruit were underneath.  It was tasty, light and a good transition course.

pear
pear
turned
turned
inside
inside

 

Dessert was an apple puree with pomegranate alongside a caramel and soy sauce ice cream.  In the center of the apple was a thick, sticky and sweet caramel.  The thin slices of apple were on top of a soft buttery cookie.  This had lots of apple flavor and the plate had the lively colors of Christmas, green and red.

apple
apple
closer
closer
turned
turned
turned
one more shot
inside
inside
Frankie liked the painted rod
Frankie liked the painted rod

 

Final sweets were orange blossom marshmallows, tangerine jellies and chocolate on shortbread.  The marshmallows had a wonderfully strong orange flavor and the shortbread was buttery and crispy sandwiching some intense chocolate.  Intense would also describe the flavor of the jellies.  A yummy way to finish a fantastic meal.

last treats
last treats
another angle
another angle
from the side
From the side
Frankie has a sweet tooth
Frankie has a sweet tooth

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