Pianovins, Paris, 12/2/23

exterior – 46 Rue Trousseau, 75011 Paris, France

Note:  Restaurant now closed

Pianovins is owned and run by two long time employees of Guy Savoy Restaurant.  The kitchen is under Chef Michel Ronciére who worked there for 25 years and the wines and front are managed by Eric Mancio who put in 28 years at Guy Savoy.  The location used to house Les Déserteurs Restaurant.  It’s a tiny place with only 20 seats so reservations are best.  They are open for lunch and dinner Tues through Sat with a 3 (€37), 5 (€58) or 7 (€69)  course meal offered.   The menu changes weekly.  Art is on the walls and bench seating runs along the walls where the small light wood tables are lined up.  No music was in the background but windows on either end let in natural light.  Service was friendly and you felt as if you were eating in their home. They didn’t bother with the offer of bottled water, they simply brought out a carafe of tap.   The lack of pretentiousness was appealing.  I strongly recommend this place.

Set-Up

interior
interior
interior
menu
wine
Frankie liked the water container

 

Food

The amuse bouche was a Jerusalem artichoke soup that was creamy and warm.  Topped with roasted nuts there was a wonderful mix of textures with excellent flavors.

Jerusalem artichoke soup

 

Moist dense bread was served sliced in a basket.  It had a fabulously crisp crust and chewy interior.

bread
inside

 

Pumpkin was combined with bleu cheese and serrano ham for the next course.  The cheese was a mild one that matched perfectly with the ham in the creamy base.  It had a lovely color and an even better taste.

Pumpkin , bleu cheese and serrano ham
closer

 

Cockles were with sea beans for the main course.  A taste of the sea on a plate.  The perfectly cooked cockles had a stong briny flavor which was amplified by the sea beans and a few pieces of seaweed.  The flavor here might not be for everyone but it was perfectly prepared and a generous portion.

Cockles, sea beans

 

Cod fish was served on mashed potatoes with parsley with splashes of parsley oil on the plate.   The large flake fish was perfectly cooked with a great crisp on the skin.  The potatoes were quite creamy and paired perfectly with the fish.  Great.

Cod fish and potatoes
from the top

 

Dessert was a citrus pavlova.  The bottom meringue was topped with cream then orange slices and orange juice and sprinkled with powdered sugar.  Amazingly light yet sweet with great citrus flavor and wonderful texture variations.  This was yummy.

citrus pavlova
from the side

 

We finished with a coffee (espresso) that came with a plate of peppermint meringue cookies and chocolate covered almonds. Both very good but I loved the peppermint meringue.

coffee, meringue cookies and chocolate nuts
closer
Frankie rested

 

 

11 thoughts on “Pianovins, Paris, 12/2/23

  1. You are an adventurous eater! Some of the things you eat I would probably never consider but after reading your review, I feel like giving it a try. Everything on this meal looks delicious. I would never consider cockles! Who knew! I love the closer….I’d have asked for more! Thanks for the trip back to one of my favorite cities, Paris!

  2. Thx for the writeup. Unfortunately, Pianovins recently closed, so won’t be able to try it. 🙁

    1. Thanks. I saw that announcement. Sad, it was such a cute, personal space with wonderfully honest food. I need to go through past posts and note closures but I seem to always be out of time.

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