The Pantry was opened by Tomas Bohn in 2009 in west Little Rock.  Based on its success, he opened The Pantry Crest in 2014 in the historic Hillcrest neighborhood.  Both locations serve Czech and German classics but the Pantry Crest is dinner only Tues through Sat.  They do not take reservations, so first come, first served.  The Pantry Crest was in a 2 story building with limited parking supplemented by street parking.  Downstairs was a good-sized bar counter with seats and high-top tables.  Upstairs was segmented into several rooms with varying sizes of tables.  Art was on the walls and a large mural was on the ceiling.  It seemed to be a very popular place with many of the tables turning  and lots of young folks in larger groups.  The service was helpful and friendly and the portions were on the large side.  However, the food was mixed.

Set-Up

Food

Truffled Deviled Eggs were topped with parmesan crisps.  The yolk portion was whipped to a creamy consistency and piped into the white for an attractive presentation.  It also had a creamier consistency than many deviled eggs I’ve had.  The crisps added texture and enhanced the flavor.  These were a success.

The Jäger Schnitzel was breaded pork loin served on spaetzle and topped with mushroom sauce.  The schnitzel was nicely cooked but I thought I detected a bit of fryer taste.  Lots of mushrooms were in the sauce but it couldn’t bring the pork to life.  The spaetzle was nicely done and in good balance with the meat but there was so much I think it added to the monotony of the plate.  This one I’d call edible but dull.

The Housemade Bratwurst came with iron skillet potatoes and sauerkraut. The sausages were excellent, juicy and flavorful and so was the sauerkraut.  Lots of caraway seeds gave it a good spark.  Alongside, the pan-fried potatoes were nicely cooked, tasty and blended in with the plate.  The mustard was a lovely addition to all.

Our server suggested the cheesecake for dessert, so we split a piece. It was bruléed on top, a fun touch that gave the creamy filling a crisp, sugared edge. It was on a fabulous thick graham cracker crust that was full of flavor and texture. This was another winner.  Also, the piece was plenty for 2.

The Pantry cookies on the menu caught my eye, and the server said they were shortbread. I toyed with ordering them, but she strongly endorsed the cheesecake and then told us we’d get a couple with the bill. That was such a nice touch. They were delicious and buttery crisp. They were an excellent cookie, but the cheesecake was even better.