Per Se Bistro – Andres Madrigal, Madrid, 3/1/25

exterior – C. de Augusto Figueroa, 32, Centro, 28004 Madrid, Spain

Per se Bistro was opened by Chef Andrés Madrigal’s in Nov. 2023 after working some time in Panama.  Thirty-six seats were in the “L” shaped two level dining room.  Large white-clothed tables were nicely spaced against the cream-colored walls, stone floors and wood accents.  Music was in the background, windows were along one wall facing the street and pottery was highlighted on shelving and in the overhead lighting.  The effect was nice.  Service was friendly but a number of the staff seemed to be in training, unsure of what to do.  They offer a tasting menu and a la carte menus at lunch.  We chose the tasting which lists some extra options including, bread, water and coffee, but they did not put in an extra charge for bread or water even though we had it.  The meal was portioned well but the food was mixed.

Set-up

interior
interior
interior
bar
menu
menu
wine
Frankie found their name on the napkin

Food

The bread service came with butter and olive oil.  It was a good crusty dense brown bread with a smokey butter and fruity olive oil.

bread service

 

The amuse bouche was a Gilda or pickled pepper, olive and mussel.  These are common snacks in town and it was a nice version.

Gilda

 

The tasting started with a trio of bites.  A torto was topped with chorizo and cabrales(Spanish blue cheese).  The thick corn base was scrumptious with nice toppings.  This was my favorite of the 3.  A croquette was stuffed with stewed chicken, fried and topped with a parsley emulsion.  It was soft on the inside and crisp on the outside.  Last was their version of Potatoes Bravas, topped with housemade sauces.  The perfectly cooked potato was a tasty touch of Spain.

trio of bites
inside

 

Ceviche of sea bass was in a corn foam topped with Panama spices.  Tree tomato, passion fruit and coconut made up the Tiger’s milk marinade.  The wonderful chunks of fish were fun with the tart, sweet and citrusy sauces and the mild cool corn foam.  A winner.

ceviche of sea bass

 

The next dish combined Jerusalem artichoke, romesco, black garlic, and portobello.  Romesco sauce made up the base which was topped with chunks of Jerusalem artichoke and slices of portabello interspersed with black garlic.  The artichoke was just cooked to al dente so added texture to the mild sauce below.  Good combo but mild on the flavor scale.

Jerusalem artichoke, romesco, black garlic, and portobello

 

An over-easy fried egg and some peas were topped with foie gras, made into a sauce combined with some cream of pea juice.  The guanciale was sprinkled on top.  The egg white got very crispy but they managed to keep the yolk runny.  The peas were not the baby ones we’d had the past couple days but they were nicely fresh with good pea flavor.  It was best when you mixed it all together – not pretty but tasty.

egg, foie gras, peas, guanciale

 

Fried skate was with pil pil (white creamy stuff), kimchi and a red cabbage based sauce.  The fish coating was nicely crisp but the fish got too overcooked and dry.  The plate had a bit of spice when you mixed in the various sauces

fried skate

 

Angus short rib, celery puree and hoisin sauce made up the last savory plate. The tender meat was boned and the hoisin made the gravy slightly sweet.  It had loads of flavor in the plate and was excellent.

Angus short rib
inside

 

Dessert was chocolate, tonka bean, praline and black pepper.  Chocolate foam with a hazelnut spongecake that had been marinated in rum was topped with a leaf cookie.  It was creamy with mild chocolate flavor and bits of crunch.  A good end.

chocolate dessert
Frankie lounged in the bathroom

 

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