Harbor House Restaurant was last visited here in Nov. 2023 but there are many other write ups if you search in my posts and with good reason – it’s a fabulous place to eat and stay.  We were lucky to be able to eat in the small dining room 2 nights this trip and enjoy the spectacular cuisine prepared by Chef Matthew Kammerer and his all star staff.  From the moment you check in you are pampered with first rate service that more importantly feels like friendship with everyone there.  The facility and kitchen continue to make additions which you’ll also see in the expanding wine list.  While they offer wine pairings for the tasting menu Sommeliers Kelly Eckel and Jason Chin will assist you in selecting a wonderful wine in your price range.   They’ve also added electric shades to the dining room which allow you to still enjoy the fabulous view without the glare of the sun.  Chef Kammerer works to make differences in the tastings if you spend 2 consecutive nights but some items need repeating.  Rather than repeating I’ll post the photo from the first night and then post the different options only from the second meal.   I urge you, if you get the opportunity to go! Do it!

Set-Up

 

Food

The meal always begins with a moist cloth to refresh your hands.  Then a savory infusion of sea vegetables with nori is a golden warm liquid in a small crystal glass.  We had this both nights.

 

Chilled vegetables from their ranch/farm were brushed with yuzu and topped with herbs like cow parsnip seed.  The tender vegetables were lightly dressed and amazingly tender with such freshness.  A few crisp artichoke leaves gave it more crunch.  As a flavor junkie, it’s amazing to me how wonderful this light flavor can be.  We had this both nights but the presentation was slightly different so I’ve pictured both.

 

Cured trout sashimi,  cured with kombu and cherry leaf, was in a broth of cherry leaf  and umeboshi (Japanese preserved plum which is sweet and salty).   An amazing broth with a bit of fruit flavor which totally set off the silky bites of fish.  Some umeboshi gel cubes underneath held the real punctuation for the dish though – outstanding.  We had this both nights.

 

We were fortunate to get some of the last of Dungeness crab with chawanmushi and dulse.  With it were the crab legs that were steamed inside leaves in an ash casing.  The bowl had crab that was poached in sea water on the custard that was seasoned with crab water.  The legs were a bit of work so they brought you a nice warm moist cloth afterwards but the bowl contained the sweet results of someone else’s work which mixed delightfully with the custard.  Very tasty.

The second night we had rockfish with fava beans and white bean miso and nettle sauce.  The fish was cured on kombu and became silky nuggets that melted in your mouth with totally scrumptious accompaniments.  This was terrific.

 

Red abalone was poached in sake and presented with mustard leaf and cauliflower.  Some grilled abalone was mixed with the offal sauce and calhikari rice. On the side were pickled vegetables.  The abalone was from a sustainable farm in Monterey.  The last bits of juices in the abalone shell could be added to the rice mixture for even more flavor.  Both variations were very good and the pickles served as a small punctuation for the flavors.  Great tastes here, especially in the rice mixture.

The second night the red abalone was grilled and presented on top of the calhikari rice with offal sauce.  In this mix were also cauliflower and peas.  The chunks of abalone were still nicely tender and great mixed with the fresh young vegetables.

 

Maitake mushrooms were fried and infused and presented alongside a bowl of lace lichen and a cup of mushroom broth.  The mushrooms were seasoned with Espelette pepper and black lime, of which you had an additional bit if you  wanted more.  The perfectly fried mushroom was so savory and a favorite repeat in the menu.  The delicate lace lichen are like glass noodles but you can see them in their raw form around the edge of the bowl.  The bowl of broth was totally savory.  This a yummy course and I was happy to have it both nights.

 

Sourdough bread  made with sea lettuce was made from a culture started by the chef in 2017.   The warm thick slice came with sea lettuce cultured butter.  The bread has a divine chew to the interior and a crackly crisp crust.  It’s great with or without the butter.  We had this both nights.

 

Black cod was cured with saki and smoked over bay laurel then presented on borage leaves.  The large flake silky fish has become a favorite of mine.  It’s buttery without actual butter with a scrumptious texture.  The second night the black cod was turnips in a broth of turnips.  This was the first juicy turnip I’ve had and it was as marvelous as the fish.   A total yum here.

 

Devil’s Gulch squab was presented whole then taken to the kitchen to plate it with spring onion and squab jus.  The squab was hung for 3 weeks then smoked and drizzled with oil to crackle the skin.  Some of the meat was ground and then wrapped in nasturtium leaves.  Along with the tender sweet onion this made a delicious plate.  The bird was tender with no hint of liver.

The second night we had Knight’s Valley wagyu beef with spring onion and jus.  The beef was from a strip cut that was aged 2 weeks.  Some raw beef was chopped and stuffed in the nasturtium leaf and an artichoke heart was also on the plate.   The jus was very savory and good with everything, especially the nice tender rare juicy beef.   A wonderful beef main course.

 

Wild sorrel sorbet, chamomile custard and Mandarin gel were combined for a palate cleanser.  It was lovely.  We had this both nights.

 

Candy cap mushroom ice cream was topped with a sesame candy layer and then some matcha tea was added at the table.  The warm tea quickly melted the ice cream but the temperature variations in this one were fun.   It was Affogato made with tea.

Second night brought us an Amazake soufflé with strawberry and marigold on the side.  For the first time presenting this dessert,  it was outstanding.  The soufflé was creamy and delicious and marvelous when mixed with the exquisite strawberries and cream.  What a delight and one I hope to have again.

 

An infusion of Douglas Fir was with grilled honey and a brush of sweet herbs to mix it in.   An array of treats included choux filled with grilled miso and apple cider;  a walnut lace cookie with Makrut lime, coffee caramel and strawberry; toasted kombu cookie with jasmine and lemon; Amazake with passion fruit; toasted oat and spent coffee; Umeboshi caramel; Marigold macaron and Mugwort candy.  All were good with the caramel a favorite.  The second night the treats were the same but the infusion was of sweet herbs but I don’t think you could see a difference.  Both were lovely ways to end a fabulous dining experience.