The Kitchen was opened in 1991 by the Selland Group and around 2014  Chef Kelly McCown, who had worked in numerous highly regarded kitchens took the helm.  Here he assembled a fine team that continues to gather awards from many sites.  The restaurant offers a tasting menu (with several types of optional wine pairings) Wed to Sun. with a twist – you can participate in the meal’s preparation and ask for seconds.  The venue is large and the 80 people in attendance are seated at a variety of tables and some around the low counter, where you can participate in the action without having to leave your seat.  Everyone is invited to be seated at the same time so when you approach expect a line at the door.  After they take you to your assigned seat (ask for the counter) they take drink orders and invite you to start milling around and sampling from the many trays of snacks scattered throughout the room.  It’s supposed to mimic a dinner party feel but to me it was a bit chaotic and the flow of the setting did not work great for milling.  Take that with a grain of salt, as I’ve dined around more than most and have been invited into many kitchens so for some this would be quite thrilling.  I don’t enjoy cooking but for some helping prepare the plates or torching the fish would be exciting.   The concept would work better for me with a much smaller group but I can appreciate the novelty of the concept.  I was fine to stay in my seat at the counter and interact with chefs in front of me and the folks beside me while enjoying some very tasty food.  One other critique I would level though was the lack of texture in the dishes.  When you prepare that many covers it’s hard to keep the crisp or heat in a dish.  Nevertheless I appreciate the changing menu format (tonight’s theme was apples), the fine service, the show with dinner and would give the place a thumbs up to visit.  We were there on Halloween, so many of the staff and patrons were in costume.

Set-Up

 

Food

Snacks started the meal and these were placed around the room and kitchen and the idea was for everyone to mingle throughout and try whatever.  They were not labeled and it was a lot of people working through some tight spaces but we got a cocktail and made the rounds.  Sorry I can’t really identify not did I have the ability to make notes but they were all pretty tasty.

 

Kabocha Pumpkin-apple “cannoli was made with Crescenza Fonduta, lobster mushroom and apple butter.  The chips on top had lost their crispness by the time it got to me but the flavor was good.  It was served with a small glass of pumpkin bisque with parmesan cream which was rich and full of flavor.

 

Apple and honey rolls were hot and lightly salted on top served with butter. They were nicely soft and doughy.

 

Fort Bragg Black Cod was plated with apple “kasu”, sake beurre blanc and Tsar Nicolai caviar.   The silky fish was excellent with the rich sauce and nicely punctuated by the caviar.  A good one.

 

Autumn Gold Potato pierogi was made with Fuji apple, ginger, and long onion plated around cider braised red cabbage.  The pasta on the pierogi was delicate and clung to some of the creamy sauce it was cooked in.   The red cabbage was topped with chunks of apple and had the dominant flavor on the plate.  Tasty.

 

Intermission was Valley Pearl ‘Malpeque’ oyster ‘on the half shell with Hog wash, Valley Pearl ‘Malpeque’  “all dressed oyster with wakame, Asian pear and Fuyu Persimmon and a Shugoku oyster shooter with fermented tomato, pickled wasabi and B & B tomatillo. The oysters  were from Washington state. The dressed oyster was very good while the half shell was nicely embelished by the pepper sauce and mignonette.  The shooter was fun and topped with some pickled items.

 

Applewood smoked Pekin Duck was paired with Gala apples, Golden apple balsamic, pink peppercorn and prickly ash.  Served medium rare the duck was very smokey tasting and well coated with pink peppercorns.  Your tongue was tingling after this course.

 

Butter Bathed beef tenderloin was plated with celeriac, burgundy truffle, apple tarragon Bearnaise and pommes fondant.  The mashed potatoes weren’t buttery enough to provide the needed fat for the filet.  The truffle was a hint of flavor at best and the apple pieces meely.  Not a success.

 

Candied Almond Tea Cake included Gala apple, white chocolate cream and apple tuille.  It was fine and the tuille actually had crisp texture.

 

Last treats were marshmallows, macaron, jelly candy and caramel stuffed buns.  Then came a couple of delicious crisp chocolate chip cookies and an enormous bowl of whipping cream to dip them in.  The Chef kept announcing how many thousands of calories were in the meal while encouraging you to ask for seconds.  The cookies were by far the best of this lot.

 

A parting gift was a bag of buttery Madeleines for each guest.  We really enjoyed these the next morning with coffee.