
We visited Quarter Acre right after they opened 2.5 years ago and were not inclined to go back except we read a compelling review of a new tasting menu by Brian Reinhart in D Magazine. Chef Toby Archibald now curates a 7 course dinner that frequently changes showcasing some of their regular options and trying out new ones. Chef Archibald is from New Zealand and combines this heritage with European influences. The tasting can be had at a table or at seats at the bar and no pre-reservation is required, but the whole table must participate. Wine pairings are available at $65/pp, not the $55 on the website, and they are not required for the whole table. The physical structure hasn’t changed much- the long room has 4-tops running down the middle in curved booths topped with large rope light fixtures. One one side is the bar with seating and the other side a bench fitted with a number of small 2-top tables, which can be combined for parties of 3 or 4. Service was much more polished and very pleasant and the music in the background was toned down to a level where conversation was very possible. Word of this tasting had spread and a number of people were getting it and the noise level was such we could even chat a bit with the adjacent tables and all marvel at the quality of the food and wine pairings. One thing we all agreed on was that this place has found its footing and you should plan to visit when you can. Maybe I’ll see you there!
Set-up






Food
As soon as we’d ordered they brought 2 toasted slices of brown sourdough with New Zealand butter. The bread was seedy and chewy. We opted for the wine pairings and the bottle will be the photo with each course. The pairings were generous and the sommelier offered to replace any wine we didn’t like. They were well chosen enough that I’d order them again.

Two bites made up the first course – A Petite Texas Gulf oyster was topped with a passionfruit foam and black sesame. The small oyster was delicious with the tart foam. Chicken liver mousse had a bit of strawbery jam also in the profiterole topped with garlic caramel. This was a yummy couple bites of mostly soft items but they left a wonderful flavor on the palate.


Ribbons of zucchini were in a mustard vinaigrette with almonds and flowers from the garden. A bit of anchovy was woven into into one of the sauces at the bottom of the bowl. It was a very good mix with lots of flavor and texture.


Applewood smoked beef tartar was brought to the table under a smoke filled dome. The chopped meat was mixed with an olive oil emulsion with dots of black mustard and topped with crispy shallots. It was a delicious mix and served with very thin caraway and fennel crackers. The dish was to remind one of barbecue with the smoke and tangy sauce.




Sweet and sour eggplant was eggplant in two ways – pureéd and grilled. The latter was sitting on the former under a rice chip topped with herb leaves.. Beside was a tomato honey and the grilled one was coated with a tamarind glaze and black garlic. Both preparations were a success, working well with the honey, chip and herbs.



Hot-smoked Glory Bay (New Zealand) salmon was with a bit of fried bread, sea and soil lettuce, turnip and shallot cream. The salmon was cooked perfectly and if you like salmon this is a real winner.


Seared duck breast was plated with sweet potato mille feuille, collard greens and burnt mandarin gastrique. The duck had a pastrimi spice coating. The sweet potatoes were crisp thin slices held in place by some sweet potato pureé. The shredded collard greens were tossed with ginger and lemon and topped with the grilled mandarin which was totally edible. The nicely rare duck was quite good but these collards were a true standout, especially when mixed with the mandarin. The sweet potato bits were also well flavored for another very good plate.



Dessert was called similar to a Pavlova and contained Kaffir lime caviar, coconut panna cotta, coconut espuma, meringue sticks and lemongrass sorbet (in the middle of the coconut foam). A delightful mix of textures with a sweet flavors. It left a great taste in your mouth too.


With the check came a to-go bag and 2 more treats, but these were too good to ever leave the table. An Anzac ‘biscuit’ (oats, butter, coconut, golden syrup) was crisp and buttery, full of texture and you could taste the Lyle’s syrup. The other was a ginger crunch with a fudgy layer on top. I’d be hard pressed to pick a favorite of the two but I left wanting more. Yum!


Beautiful Write up, Helen!
Thank you! This place has really upped its game from when they opened. Let me know what you think if you get there.