Cycene derived its name from the word for kitchen in Old English.  It endeavors to create the feeling of dining in a private home with a 9 course menu focused on local seafood and game.  It’s a moving dinner where you start on the ground floor in the bar area.  Here you have a few snacks and drinks and then it’s off to the second floor kitchen where you also have bites before finally adjourning to the dining room.   The evening can only accommodate 16 people which do arrive in 2 groups, as the bar can’t seat all at once.  For groups up to 6 they also have a private dining room right off the kitchen.  You have to ring at the Blue Mountain School building as the restaurant has no signage but the school has no school.  You might think it would feel weird but instead you couldn’t be more warmly welcomed as you are lead into the bar counter.  Low and behold there was Chef Hannah Blackwell who we met at Aulis last year and she was good enough to remember us, as my old brain doesn’t work that fast, but then I knew a good evening was in store for us.  Head Chef Taz Sarhane joined her at the bar to serve drinks and snacks and talked about his love of foraging and the unique nature of this restaurant – from the novel food combinations to the modern art and handmade pottery.  They have a one Michelin Star rating and I highly recommend you visit this place when in London.

Set-up

 

Bar

At the bar we tried the Mustard Seed Martini to go with the snacks.   The plate of bites was made up of (clockwise) foraged/preserved items including candied pinecones (like a piece of honeycomb), black walnuts, White strawberries, pickled girolles, candied kumquats, and  green figs (sweet).   There was also a plate of charcuterie of pig and a couple slices of seeded bread whose edge was basted with chicken fat.  To spread on it was fluffy butter and whipped  chicken fat with bone marrow and then sprayed with vinegar – which was smooth.  The bread was dense with tons of texture.

 

Kitchen

In the kitchen we had cow leg that was aged 250 days mixed with confit egg yolk and topped with chives.   Next a piece of A5 Wagyu cooked over juniper on one side and basted with bone marrow then topped with a cep mushroom glaze and finally garnished with flowers, cow tendon and puffed buckwheat.  It was totally savory and rich.  On the side was a cup of black currant smoked tea.

 

Dining Room

Moving to the dining room which was set with white cloths and large napkins at good sized, well-spaced tables.  Some bench seating was along the walls opposite armed chairs.  Music was in the background and the lights were low supplemented by a candle on the table.   First course here was a tempura Langoustine from Scotland and a bowl with hornwrack and raspberry dipping sauce.  There was a lot of coating on the langoustine but you didn’t mind cause it was so tasty and the sauce made it even better

 

A creme brulee like pudding had a cake in the middle  and a sauce with pickled walnuts and oxalis.  It had an almond essence to the dish and the smooth creamy bottom was fun with the crunchy toppings.

 

Black label Rossini caviar topped crab leg meat in a custard of ginger.  The custard was good but this course was all about that lovely caviar.  Alongside was a brioche seasoned with fermented honey and fennel.   It had more the texture of a Parker House roll  – soft, warm and delicious.

 

Crab claw meat was seasoned with XO sauce, braised radish, potatoes and peppercorn then topped with seasoned sabayon.  The sauce was light in flavor and heavy in richness with the crab taking the lead.  A good depth of flavor in this dish.

 

Shetland cod was dry aged 6 days and plated with rhubarb and creme fraiche topped with rhubarb powder.  The perfectly cooked large flake fish had the chewy skin on one side which were both great with the sauce and rhubarb.   This plate was yummy good.

 

Highland wagyu was with a seared cauliflower purée, Japanese artichoke, and beef jus seasoned with langoustine heads.  Two side dishes were a salad bouquet and oxtail- browned butter potato mash topped with crispy artichokes.  The tasty rare piece of wagyu beef was great mixed with the sauce and/or purée.  The potatoes were outstanding especially the crispy artichokes.  The salad was a nice light finish with the dressing somehow worked into the leaves.   The rich potatoes might have been my favorite part.

 

Cornish Meyer lemons were mixed with toasted rice and milk.  This was a rendition of a typical British dessert.  It was wonderful with the toasty rice giving it lots of crunch and the creamy parts sparked with the lemon and zest.  Very good.

 

Vanilla ice cream was in a warm sherry sauce and another bowl held a chocolate ball filled with cep mushroom ganache sitting on cocoa nibs.  Along with it was a glass of Horchata – a sweet creamy beverage.  This was an outstanding chocolate dessert – one of the best I’ve had.   You could mix it with the cool smooth vanilla ice cream and sherry or eat each individually and be happy.  The mushroom was a terrific blend with the chocolate and the textures just brought it all together.  The drink was okay but the other two dishes were divine.

 

Petit Fours. were moonshine blueberry drink,  sticks covered with Berkshire honey,  Madeleines with black trufflles and a pine ice cream sandwich.  All very good.  I particularly appreciated that the ice cream in the sandwich was softened enough to bite easily yet the cookie retained its crispness.   Madeleines are a favorite anyway but the truffle added a fun flavor element to their buttery goodness.   The sticks were a bit messy but good honey.  All in all a fabulous end to a terrific meal.