MoSuke Restaurant, Paris, 12/1/23

exterior – 11 Rue Raymond Losserand, 75014 Paris, France

MoSuke served a cuisine that combines west and central African dishes with French and Japanese twists.  Chef Mory Sacko won France’s first Michelin star for African cuisine at just 28 years of age.  That was 2 years ago and since then he has competed on France’s Top Chef TV cooking show during the Covid lockdown.  The unassuming exterior does not match the stylized interior. Very modern and tasteful furnishings, down to the toilet in the bathroom, are made with light wood set to curved couch-like seating.  Lots of plants, fabric on the ceiling, windows to the garden alongside, modern art decorations and music in the background make up the pleasant ambiance.  At lunch, there were 2  tasting menu options, a four and six-course menus with optional wine pairings.  We chose the 6 and you had to choose between 2 dessert options, so we got one of each. The meal was paced quickly with good portion control.  There were a ton of unfamiliar ingredients so the descriptions are somewhat lacking, but overall it was interesting and fun food with some nice unusual variations.

Set-Up

interior
interior
ceiling
interior
kitchen
menu
menu
wine
Frankie studied the modern toilet
purse stool

 

Food

The meal started with a glass of bouillon dashi and seaweed which was nice.  Black Chanwanmushi contained nori, wakame, Baie de Selim with a side spoon of crunchy nori that stayed crisp throughout.  It was good not great.

Chanwanmushi and bouillon dashi
closer
inside

 

Bread service came with whipped butter.  The dense bread came in nice wedges and had a good crust but was a bit dry.  The butter was seasoned and good.

bread
bread and butter

 

Carotte, Ras el Honour, Brick caramelisee, condiment fruits confit  Glazed carrots were seasoned with the spices of Africa and sandwiched in thin crispy layers.  It was well-seasoned and tasty.  Homard Breton Grillé, Sesame, mousseline de pomme de terre au miso, aonori  A potato mousse was with lobster chili was next to it   It was excellent.

potatoes and carrots
closer
from the side
closer

 

Curry tanzanien, chapati noix de coco, nigelle, epine vinette  was smoked milk custard topped with spices. You were to spread it on the accompanying bread.  You also could dip the bread in the bowl of curry custard in the bowl.

curry and bread
closer
closer

 

Grilled scallops, sauce Yakiniku, tobiko wasabi, gingermbre mioga was a grilled scallop with a Japanese sauce that included soy, ginger, and pepper.  It was nicely spicy and full of flavor as was the barbecue sauce the scallop was sitting in. The nicely cooked scallop sang with the seasonings that popped in your mouth.

scallop

 

Kombucha jus mixed with wine and fish eggs came with lakefish – Charfish – sushi on rice that was topped with mushrooms.  A more mildly flavored dish, the fish had a jelly-like consistency, with no strong flavor but some difficulty cutting through (but that could have been the knife as it chewed beautifully). A sweet sauce was the smaller circle whereas the larger puddle was buttery.

Charfish sushi on rice
closer
turned

 

Fish soup was next – an African boulibasse – with spicy fish chunks, okra, mussels and a crisp fish skeleton cookie in the flavorful broth.  A nice depth of flavor and texture made this a good one.

Fish soup

 

Dry aged beef topped with peanuts in a tomato and oil sauce was presented with a couple of extra sauces on the sides of the plate.  The beef was cooked to medium rare and tender enough but quite lean.  The sauces carried this dish as they all had more flavor than the beef.

Frankie studied the knife
beef

 

A transition course was a spoonful of orange and marigold flavors.  It was a sorbet to refresh your palate.

orange and marigold sorbet

 

Next was a graham-like cookie on the bottom of some sweet cream with its bowl decorated with swirls of sweet substance.  I don’t describe it well but it was yummy.  You really wanted to lick this bowl clean.

cookies and cream
inside

 

The chocolate tart dessert had a smoked salt crust with fudge on the side beside ice cream.

chocolate
from the side

 

Lemon curd was with dried mushrooms and caramel alongside frozen yuzu.  The lemon brioche was great with the sweet sauce, which was not that strongly caramel-flavored.  Great textures in this one and it was the better of the 2 desserts.

mushroom and caramel
closer
citrus ice closer

 

Mignardises included azuki ice cream with red beans, and matcha tea with cocoa bean.    The spoon held a pear and tamarind puree that was sweet, smooth and had tons of pear flavor.  The rolled treat was made with an African plant and had a jelly-like texture.  It was smooth.

pouring tea
Mignardises
closer
closer
Frankie reminded us of the name

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