Cornus opened in August of 2024, independently owned by David O’Connor and Joe Nairne.  Executive Chef Gary Foulkes offers a changing menu of British and European seasonal produce.   It’s a large place on the 4th floor of a modern building with curtained windows on 3 sides.  The high ceiling is lined with black electrical conduits and music is in the background. They have a lovely terrace for dining when the weather permits and a long marble-topped bar in addition to the many white cloth-covered tables.  Some bench seating is along a low wall dividing it from the bar area   They also have a private dining room available.  We were there for lunch when they have an a la carte menu as well as a 3 or 6-course tasting menu.  We chose the 6-course menu with our own bottle of wine.  It was eerily empty but the server assured us that dinners are more popular.  Service was nice but I was surprised at how slowly the food came out, considering we were one of 3 tables – our lunch took almost 3 hours.  Portions on the tasting were on the large side but the food was so good you ate it anyway.  I recommend this place but go hungry.  (Note – they were awarded one Michelin Star in the 2025 guide)

Set-up

 

Food

An amuse bouche was a gougere filled with cheese fondont.  The crunchy exterior was filled with a very runny cheese for a fine bite.

 

Next was a 60-month aged parmesan tart with mushroom and onions.  It was crisp, sweet and yummy.

 

A squid and prawn mousse were on crackers for a nice taste of seafood with a hint of spice.

 

The bread service was slices of sourdough and focaccia, the latter made in house.  The butter was nicely softened and both breads were good.  The sourdough had a crisp crust with a doughy interior and the focaccia didn’t need butter.

 

Warm vegetable salad was with bitter leaves, Piedmont hazelnuts and pear.  It was an interesting mix of perfectly cooked vegetables and a fun mix of sweet and bitter along with textural contrasts too.  It had squash, puntarelle, and Jerusalem artichokes that I noted.  It was a nice light beginning.

 

Christian Parra Boudin Noir, BBQ apple, onion marmalade and red endive leaves was next.  According to the server this is the best black pudding on the market and it was certainly one of the best I’ve had.    The various greens were repetitive but worked to a very good end result.  The marmalade was particularly notable.

 

Caramelized pumpkin gnocchi were with chanterelles, mushroom ketchup, squash purée and winter truffle.  Another good mix of textures with the tender gnocchi.  The mushrooms and truffles also brought strong flavors into the dish.

 

Roast wild Scottish Mallard duck was plated with chestnut purée, stuffed cabbage, celeriac and cardamon.  This had the breast meat with the liver and leg meat wrapped in cabbage.  The chestnut purée accented the meat as did some pickled radish and apples.  It was nicely rare with good flavor.

 

Creamed rice pudding with Yorkshire rhubarb and rhubarb ripple ice cream was the first dessert.  The nicely seasoned rice had some ice cream hiding under the crisp tuile, which added sweetness and texture.    I loved it.

 

Red Kissabel apple tarte tatin with creme d’ Isigny was the second dessert.  The apples had been caramelized to sticky goodness and then placed in a buttery flakey crust.  Excellent.  Simplicity at its finest.   This was lick the plate good.

 

Last treats were chocolate and clotted cream fudge and a lychee and rose macaron.  Both were good but I preferred the fudge.